What Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Drying and Folding Your Clothes

The next step after washing your clothes is learning how to dry your clothes effectively. If you’re afraid that any of your garments will shrink in the heat of the dryer, hang them up or lay them flat to dry.

Pull out any items from the washer that had been pre-treated with a stain remover and inspect to make sure that the stain is completely gone. If a stain remains after washing, set the item aside to continue working to remove the stain. Putting any clothing in the dryer (heat) with a stain may set the stain and then you might not be able to get rid of it.

Otherwise, take all the clothes out of the washer, shake them so they’re not balled-up and toss them in the dryer.

Choose the appropriate dryer setting for the clothes. For example, heavy sweatshirts can go on the “normal” setting while dress shirts and khakis should go on “permanent press” or another light setting.

Dryer Settings

• Sensor Dry – automatically senses the moisture in the load and shuts the dryer off when the selected dryness level (very dry to damp dry) is reached. This cycle is recommended for the majority of loads including delicate items, wrinkle free and cotton/sturdy items like towels, bedding and jeans.
• Time Dry – may be selected for any load if sensor dry is not used. Use dryer time settings to select the desired number of minutes.

Dryer Temperature

• Regular – for sturdy cottons or those labeled “Tumble Dry.”
• Medium – for permanent press, synthetics, lightweight cottons or items labeled “Tumble Dry Medium.”
• Delicate – for heat sensitive items labeled “Tumble Dry Low” or “Tumble Dry Warm.”

Dryness Level

• Very Dry – used to completely dry sturdy or bulky items including towels and jeans.
• Normal – used for drying the majority of loads.
• Damp Dry – designed to partially dry items. Used for items that lay flat or hang to dry.

Important Tip:

When the dryer buzzer goes off, get the clothes out right away and start folding! This will keep the fabric wrinkle free and make your job much easier. Having to run the “wrinkle rid” cycle again (if you’ve left them too long) wastes time and energy.

Dryer Tips

Bedspreads and Comforters

• Follow the care label instructions or dry on the sensor dry cycle. Most bedspreads and comforters should be dried one at a time.
• Regular temperature.
• Be sure the item is thoroughly dry before using or storing.
• May require repositioning to ensure even drying.

Blankets

• Use sensor dry and if blankets are large, dry only one blanket at a time for best tumbling action.
• Be sure the item is thoroughly dry before using or storing.

Curtains and Draperies

• Use the sensor dry cycle and extra low temperature to help minimize wrinkling.
• Dry these in small loads for best results and remove as soon as possible.

Cloth Diapers

• Use sensor dry and the regular temperature setting for soft, fluffy diapers.

Down Filled Items

• Use sensor dry and the extra low temperature setting.
• Place a clean pair of sneakers in the dryer with the item to fluff the down comforters, etc. Adding a couple of dry towels shortens dry time and absorbs moisture.

Foam Rubber

• Do not dry on a heat setting. Use the air fluff special cycle (no heat).
• WARNING – Drying a rubber item with heat may damage it or be a fire hazard.

Pillows

• Use sensor dry.
• Add a couple of dry towels and a pair of clean sneakers to help the tum- bling action and to fluff the item.
• Do not dryer-dry kapok or foam pillows.

Tips for Folding Your Clothes

My favorite part of doing laundry is folding. I think it’s kind of relaxing. I remember my little girls running towards me as I was folding diapers (Yes, I used cotton diapers on my kids), and they’d jump right into the big warm mountain of clean cotton, and then into my arms. Those are very good memories.

Pick a Comfortable Work Area

Find a good location with an adequate size clean table or counter. Folding in a small, cramped space makes it difficult to create neat small stacks. If the stack of folded clothing gets too high, the clothing will tumble over.

• If standing: Pick a surface that is about waist high. Too high will be hard on your shoulder muscles, too low and your back will be screaming at you later. Also, make sure the clean clothes basket can sit comfortably on the folding space. This will help you avoid bending continuously to pick up clothes. Doing this will be better for your back and save you time.
• If sitting: It is best to have the basket at waist level. So, if you are sitting on a couch and using your coffee table to fold, place the basket on the coffee table not on the couch next to you. Placing the basket in front of you (or slightly off to the side) on the coffee table helps you avoid twisting and will make your job faster.

Sort and Fold

Now that you have picked your area and have your “work station” it is time to get folding.

1. Pick up an item and fold on your work table.
2. Start stacks for each person in your household. I like to have an “area” for each person consisting of their stacked jeans,  t-shirts, undies, etc.
3. Make stacks for bathroom towels, kitchen towels, and miscellaneous items, place in stacks by location that the items will be stored.
4. Continue folding and stacking until all items are folded and assigned to their proper “stack.

Now that you have the laundry sorted into stacks, combine stacks to create one for each person. Large items on bottom (jeans), t-shirts next, under garments then socks. This keeps each person’s stack stable and is easier for THEM to put away!

Why bother you ask? I have found if the stack is too wobbly when people are putting away the clothes, they tend to tip and fall on the floor. When this happens, I have noticed that it is easier for the person (kids) that’s putting the clothes away to throw those perfectly clean clothes back into the dirty laundry, rather than to re-fold them and put away.

Amazing but true! I said that I enjoy doing laundry but not that much!

Folding Large items

Over-sized towels, sheets, blankets and comforters can be a hassle and awkward to fold.

The best option is to get someone to help hold corners and fold the item. This way you can avoid having your clean sheets or blankets touch your not-so-clean floor.

If you can’t get someone to help hold corners and fold, then you can use a bed or large dining table. They are both at a decent level and you can spread your item out without touching the floor.

It will be slower than having help, but it works better than trying to use a small table or the floor.

Speaking of Help

The only part about doing laundry that I used to dread was the part where something did not get in the wash and there was some crisis because of it, and somehow it was my fault. The blame game ended when I gave everyone a specific task and created a system. Doing this will make your job more enjoyable and all things will go much smoother. Here are ways to get help:

• Have everyone be responsible for getting clothes into the laundry area before laundry day. My wash day is Saturday and sometimes the kids get reminders, sometimes they don’t but they know the rules.
• I fold and stack laundry but it’s everyone’s job to put their own clean laundry away.
• Young children love the “sock sorting game”. Have a contest to see who can match the most or just have fun. It is helpful to get kids started young helping with laundry or any household chore.

Folding laundry can be enjoyable. Sometimes I fold watching a bit of TV, sometimes I like to fold to music and sometimes I listen to audio books. To me, folding is relaxing and one of the most enjoyable household tasks. Maybe it is because I always reward myself with a good cup of coffee afterwards!

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What Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Washing Your Clothes

Clothes are not inexpensive and chances are you’ve invested a pretty penny on some items over the years. Knowing how to wash clothes is essential if you want them looking good each time you wear them.

If you’ve been known to grab clothes from the hamper and simply throw them into the washing machine without a second glance, then you may be making more work for yourself in the long run.

There’s more to laundry than just washing and drying clothes. Doing the laundry is about getting your clothes clean and that can be a lot harder than people assume.

Using the right detergents, correct water temperatures, checking labels, and removing stains, these and more can help prolong the life of your wardrobe, preserve colors, and keep the fabric looking like new.

Separate, Prepare and Pre-Treat Laundry

If you can get your laundry prepared for washing beforehand and assigning each item to a particular color pile, this can be a great time saver. Clothes should be separated by lights, darks, whites, and delicates/handwash. Whites and lights can most likely be combined to save time as long as the fabrics are similar.

We all know how important it is to separate whites from colors before throwing them into the wash, but did you also know that you should wash lint-making fabrics separately from fabrics that don’t create lint?

I’ve ruined (at least temporarily) clothing by washing it with new towels or blankets. My shirts and pants were completely covered in lint when they came out of the wash and it took a while to get rid of it completely.

If you can get a hamper with three to four compartments or use individual laundry baskets, you can sort your clothes right when you take them off.

• Whites – Underwear, t-shirts and socks that are washed in hot water
• Lights – Light colors like pastels that are washed in warm water
• Darks – Dark colors that are washed in cold water
• Hand wash – Delicate garments that need to be washed by hand or a delicate or handwash cycle
• Other – Set aside extremely soiled clothes to launder by themselves

Sorting as you take your clothes off each night will save time on laundry day and will prevent the above mentioned white socks from turning pink if they’re washed with a red t-shirt.

It’s also a good idea to get into the habit of reading the care labels on your clothes to make sure you’re washing them correctly.

Preparing Clothes Prior to Washing

Preparing your clothes prior to washing can prevent snagging, discoloration, stains from becoming permanent, and actually help your clothes get the cleanest they can be.

Set Aside Clothing That Needs to be Repaired

Set aside any garments that need to be repaired. A lose button can become a tear and so on.

Pull Sleeves and Pant Legs Out

Pull sleeves and pant legs out. In some cases you may need to turn some items inside out to help preserve embellished pieces or the design on a tshirt.

Some people also like to turn denim inside out to help the color from fading.

Button Buttons

Buttoning the buttons on your clothes before they go in the washing machine helps to keep the fabric from pulling and some buttons may snag other clothes.

Hook Bra Straps Together

Hook bras so they don’t hook and rip other delicate items. When washing delicate items, a lingerie or mesh bag can help keep them looking pretty for much longer. Labels may even recommend hand washing and laying flat to dry. I don’t put delicate items in the dryer, I lay flat to dry.

Zip Zippers

Zip up zippers prior to putting them in the wash as this will protect the teeth of the zipper and it will also protect the rest of the clothes in the wash since fabrics can snag easily on an open zipper. So zip up before putting anything in the washing machine.

Check Pockets

Check pockets prior to putting in the washing machine. I know I’ve left keys, change and rings in my pockets and these things can get out of the pockets and get stuck in the washing machine drum causing significant damage. Kids may leave chalk or color crayons in their pockets which can discolor and ruin other clothes in the wash.

Pre-Treat Stains

Pre-treat spots and stains.

Loading the Washing Machine

Whether you have a top loader or a front loader, it’s important – do not put too many clothes in the washing machine.

If there are too many clothes in the washing machine, they won’t get clean. Put just enough clothes in so you can still move them around with your hand. If your washing machine has settings for load size, choose the size that is appropriate for the amount of clothes you’ve put in.

Overloading the washing machine will reduce washing efficiency and cause fading and creasing and it can also cause excess wear on the washing machine itself.

Wash delicate items such as bras, hosiery and other lingerie in the “Delicates” or “Handwash” cycle with similar lightweight items.

When washing smaller, bulky items that do not fill the tub completely such as a throw rug, one or two pillows, or a couple stuffed toys add in a few towels for improved tumbling and spin performance.

When washing heavily soiled loads, it is very important to avoid overloading the washer to assure quality cleaning results.

What Water Temperature to Use When Washing Clothes

It’s important to use the water temperature specified for the type of laundry you are washing for optimal results.

Unless a detergent is specially formulated for cold water or the fabric label advises against it, a general rule is to always use warm water to wash clothing. Warm water helps to dissolve the detergent so it can get to work and clean your clothes.

Light clothing that will not fade should be washed on a hot or warm water temperature with a warm rinse cycle. Using a warm water rinse assists in keeping the colors bright and reduces dinginess.

Dark clothing should be washed in warm or cold water, (depending on the detergent you use). Cooler temperatures help to preserve the garments color and reduce fading.

• Hot/Cold – Whites and heavily soiled color-fast items
• Warm/Warm – Color-fast items.
• Warm/Cold – Moderately soiled color-fast items; most wrinkle free items
• Cold/Cold – Brightly colored, lightly soiled items; washable woolens

Washing Machine Fabric Settings

• Regular Wash – Combines a fast agitation with a fast spin cycle. Use for cotton, linens, towels, bedding.
• Hand Wash – Alternating periods of short and long soak and gentle spin speed. Use for items labeled hand wash.
• Delicate – Gentle agitation and gentle spin speed. Use for dress shirts/blouses, wool, nylons, sheer or lacy garments.
• Wrinkle Free – Reduced tumble pattern and spin speed to reduce wrinkling. Use for dress shirts/pants, wrinkle free clothing, poly/cotton blend clothing.
• Cotton Sturdy – Normal tumble pattern and high speed spin. Use for towels, jeans, sheets, linens, underwear, t-shirts.

Soil Level / Wash Options

• Heavy Soil – Use for cleaning heavily soiled loads.
• Normal Soil – Use for cleaning moderately soiled loads. This setting will be appropriate for most loads.
• Light Soil – Use for cleaning lightly soiled loads.
• Rinse – Choose this setting to rinse only and then spin.
• Spin – Spins only.

• Presoak – Adds 15 minutes of mostly soaking with minimal tumbling before the regular cycle. Can be selected with any cycle.
• Stain Cycle – Adds time to the wash and rinses for better stain removal. Automatically provides a fourth rinse.
• Extra Rinse – A fourth rinse at the end of the cycle to more completely remove laundry additives and perfumes.
• Max Extract – Use for jeans, towels, and bedding. Removes more water from loads during spin.

Add Detergent/Whitening Agents/Fabric Softener/Scent Booster

If you have a top loader, add detergent, whitening agents, fabric softener (for a more natural approach you can use vinegar or baking soda alone as a substitute for fabric softener) and scent boosters (if you choose to use them) according to the product instructions. Scent boosters are most often added directly to the wash tub. Essential oils can be used as well in place of store bought scent boosters.

If you have a front loader, you’ll also need to add these items according to the instructions, you’ll need to use a special type of detergent labeled “HE”. HE laundry detergent stands for high efficiency and doesn’t create as many suds. Too many suds can build up and the pressure can cause soapy water to leak from the door.

Laundry 101 Part 8 – Tips for Drying and Folding Laundry

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Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Fabric Softeners

Fabric softener is a combination of chemicals that are used to make clothing softer and reduce static electricity.

I have long loved the “fresh from the dryer” smell of clean laundry, but I’m not a fan of adding commercial fabric softeners to my laundry. That goes for both the liquid softener you pour in the rinse cycle or the dryer sheets used when drying your clothes.

The older I have gotten, the more concerned I am with the chemicals in the products I use, and fabric softener is at the top of my list.

Whether the fabric softener is added as a liquid in the rinse cycle, or in the dryer as a dryer sheet, it ultimately covers every little bit of your clothing. Any chemicals present are in full contact with most every part of your body.

What’s In Fabric Softeners?

Here are just a few ingredients that can be found in fabric softener:

• Alpha-Terpineol: Central nervous system (CNS) problems, breathing problems, and can cause headaches.
• Benzyl Acetate: Linked to pancreatic cancer. Irritating to eyes and lungs.
• Limonene: Carcinogen. Irritating to eyes and skin.
• Linalool: CNS disorder and reduces heart rate.

There are more chemicals used in fabric softeners for fragrance, making your clothes feels soft, and for stopping static cling that are all worrisome and that can trigger reactions.

I decided a long time ago not to use fabric softeners. There are natural ways to soften your laundry and to stop static cling without covering your clothing with chemicals that have been linked to cancer, brain damage, breathing problems, and skin irritations.

Using Baking Soda or Washing Soda to Soften Clothes

Instead of using a fabric softener in the washing machine or dryer, you can add extra fabric softening and deodorizing by adding 1/2 cup of baking soda to the rinse cycle. Baking soda is a gentler alternative to commercial fabric softeners.

You can also use 1/2 cup of washing soda added to the wash load along with your regular detergent to soften the water by increasing the pH level. A higher pH helps the detergent do a better job for removing dirt and oil and also helps reduce mineral build up on your clothing.

Both baking soda and washing soda are alkaline substances; they boost the power of detergent, deodorize and help to keep white colors bright.

Instead of a Fabric Softener try Using White Vinegar

Plain white vinegar is mildly acidic and helps reduce the pH of the water. Adding one cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle helps remove soap residue and helps to keep clothes soft. That single cup will also help deodorize your laundry, reduce lint and associated static build up. And don’t worry it won’t smell like vinegar when it’s finished washing.

Using Wool Dryer Balls to Help Soften Clothes

Wool dryer balls are a very effective way to replace fabric softeners and to soften clothes and reduce static cling as they bounce around the inside of the dryer. They come in various sizes but are made of 100 percent wool and a nice option versus a dryer sheet. Just follow package instructions, toss in the recommend number of balls and dry.

Related Articles

Laundry 101 – Part 7 – Tips for Washing Laundry

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Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Laundry Detergents

When choosing a laundry detergent, check the appliance manufacturer manual for the best type of detergent to use in your washing machine.

Many new washing machines require HE (high efficiency) detergent in order to properly clean and rinse the soap out of your clothing. HE detergent is low sudsing and stops excess suds from forming in front loading washing machines. Other than HE detergent, the detergent you choose really depends on your own preferences; powder versus liquid, brand, scent and budget.

Use the Right Amount of Detergent, Don’t Overdo It

You’ll be much more satisfied with your washing machine, and the way your clothes turn out, if you read detergent instructions, you’ll find that more detergent is not better. If the detergent bottle says to use a half a capful for a regular load, then do not use a full cap of detergent.

The extra cleaning detergent you add will not get your clothes any cleaner. As a matter of fact it will be harder to rinse out of clothing. Detergent left on your clothing after they have been washed is ultimately just the same as dirt.

If you have a top loading washing machine that does not have a dispenser for detergent, let the tub start filling with water first then about half full add in the detergent so it can adequately mix then add in clothes.

Adjust Detergent for Water Hardness and Soil Level

It’s important to pay attention to the soil level, load size, and water hardness.

Soft Water

Soft water generates more suds naturally than the same amount of suds that would be generated in hard water. Avoid over sudsing which causes extended cycle times. If you know you have soft water, reduce the amount of detergent you use.

Hard Water

Hard water reduces detergent effectiveness which can result in poor cleaning of the clothes you are washing. Soften the water if needed to increase the power of the detergents used to wash clothes.

Soiled Clothing

Heavily soiled clothing should be allowed to pre-soak before washing as this allows stains and grime to loosen and be removed more easily. This can make a big difference in how they come clean.

Either fill the washing machine, a utility sink or bucket (depending on how many clothing items you are trying to get clean) with warm water, stain remover of your choice and detergent. Let soak overnight if you can.

Don’t Overload the Washing Machine

Don’t overload the washing machine! If you are overloading and packing clothes in tight, clothes do not have room to agitate which means they are not getting clean.

Overloading a washing machine also means that zippers, latches, buttons can rub up against another item of clothing and cause damage.

Overloading the washer can cause damage to the machine. With all the extra weight, it can strain the motor and you may have to have it repaired.

Front Loading Washing Machines and HE Detergents

Front loaders are designed to use less water (about 1/4 less) than that of regular top loading washing machines. It’s important to use HE (high efficiency) detergent in front load washing machines as the manufacturers recommend.

High efficiency detergents contain suds suppressors which reduce or eliminate suds without reducing the detergent effectiveness. When less suds are produced, the load tumbles more efficiently in a front loader and the cleaning results are maximized.

Using regular laundry detergent in a front loader will cause too many suds for the amount of water in the machine. Because front-loaders use less water in every load, this means the washing machine will have to work harder to get rid of all of that soapy sudsy water. Excess suds interfere with the agitation and tumbling action that is necessary to thoroughly remove dirt.

Some people try to use regular laundry soap in a front loader, but it’s not worth it. High efficiency means it cleans well with fewer suds. Using half the recommended amount of “regular” laundry soap is just not effective. The amount of suds may be cut down, but so is the cleaning power because you are using too little soap. It’s a catch-22 and is totally not worth it in the long run.

Just use HE detergents that are recommended for front loading washing machines and use the recommended amount to avoid soap build up.

Using Powdered Laundry Detergents

Generally powdered laundry detergents are more powerful than liquid detergent because bleach and detergent surfactants last longer and are more stable in powdered form.

It’s important to use warm or hot water when washing with powdered laundry detergent to completely dissolve it. Cold water can leave soap powder (that never dissolved) on your clothes and inside your washing machine and that residue is just waiting to start smelling everything up.

Using Liquid Laundry Detergents

Water temperature is not as much of a problem with liquid detergent because the detergent is already dissolved.

Liquid detergent is also beneficial if you have hard water. The high mineral content in hard water makes it more difficult for laundry soap to dissolve, so using a liquid detergent is the better choice.

Because liquid detergent is fairly concentrated, it’s just as easy to use too much. Liquid detergent also leaves a residue so it’s important to measure the amount you use in each load. The proper amount to use will vary depending on the load size and water level.

Look at the instructions on the back of the bottle and you’ll often find instructions to fill the cup just to the half way mark for a full wash load. I wonder how many people fill it 3/4 full or more without even knowing they are using 50 percent more than they should be?

Hopefully this reference on using laundry detergents has helped, now let’s move on to Laundry 101: Part 6, Using Fabric Softeners.

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Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Laundry Boosters and Water Softeners

Laundry boosters or water softeners are additives that soften and condition the water to help make detergent work more effectively, keep your clothes from looking dingy and help remove that powdery residue that washing in hard water can leave on your clothes.

Hard Water – What is It? and How to Deal with It?

Hard water is water that has high mineral content that causes problems with cleaning because it reduces detergent effectiveness. Soap does not lather well if the mineral content is high and that has a direct effect on how clean your clothes will be after washing.

More than 85 percent of homes in the U.S. have hard water. The mineral levels, ph levels and (of course) the smell and taste of water are subject to various factors. Water that comes from a well, in particular can have very high levels of minerals and odors that cannot be buffered with water softeners or filtered out.

Hard water causes soap scum to form instead of the sudsy lather you need to get your clothes clean. Specifically, calcium and magnesium combined with sodium in the detergent to form a sticky solid that is difficult to rinse and adheres to all surfaces: clothing, the washing machine, and even in plumbing as lime scale build up.

Water softeners and laundry boosters reduce hard water’s adverse effects; reducing the formation of soap scum and increasing the effectiveness of the detergent.

Many detergents already contain water softeners, but it’s frequently not enough to counteract heavy mineral levels in the home’s water supply.

Water softeners work by removing calcium and magnesium ions, and replacing them with sodium or potassium ions. This exchange results in a physical softening that you can actually feel, the water literally becomes softer to the touch.

Typical Water Softeners and Laundry Boosters

• Baking Soda
• Washing Soda
• Borax

The chemistry may be elemental, but if your clothing looks dingy and feels stiff you may not have a clue where to start. Let’s review how to fix your hard water problems and super charge your detergent.

Using Baking Soda as a Water Softener

Baking soda is a salt called sodium bicarbonate. It’s most commonly used in baking as a leavening ingredient. Baking soda is also a deodorizer and is a safe and natural ingredient used for cleaning in many homes today.

Sodium bicarbonate is a excellent surfactant and a water softener. The addition of baking soda to the wash load softens hard water by adding sodium which competes with the magnesium and calcium ions present in hard water. The additional sodium stops magnesium and calcium from binding with the detergent, and so allows the detergent to lather and clean more effectively.

Baking soda is similar to washing soda, but they are not the same. Washing soda is caustic and can cause burns. Baking soda is safe, or at least as safe as a kitchen food staple can be. Baking soda won’t burn you and you don’t need to wear gloves or eye protection when using it.

I’m sure you can see where I’m going on this, I use baking soda to soften the water and boost my laundry detergent. I don’t have anything against washing soda but if I have two choices and the result is the same: I pick the safest one, and that’s baking soda.

How to Use Baking Soda in the Laundry

You can find baking soda in the baking section at the grocery store, Arm and Hammer is one of many other brands. Simply add 1 cup of baking soda along with your regular detergent to soften water and increase detergent effectiveness.

Baking soda will:

• Naturally soften hard water   
• Improves the cleaning power of detergent
• Removes oil and grease
• Reduces hard water deposits
• Deodorizes

Using Washing Soda (Soda Ash) to Soften Water

Washing soda or soda ash is sodium carbonate which is a salt of carbonic acid. Washing soda comes in a powder form which comes from plant ashes (this is why it’s called soda ash) and it can also be made from sodium chloride a.k.a. table salt.

Washing soda is similar to baking soda, but they are not interchangeable. Baking soda is a salt called sodium bicarbonate used in food preparation, and washing soda is 2 times stronger than baking soda and cannot be used in food preparation. It is used primarily as a water softener for washing laundry.

Washing soda neutralizes acid, raises water pH levels and is an effective laundry booster and water softener. Washing soda works to soften hard water by adding sodium that competes with magnesium and calcium ions present in hard water.

Washing soda is extremely alkaline. It has a pH level of 11. This means that it is caustic and it can burn your skin or eyes. Use gloves and protective eye wear when using it. Don’t pour washing soda directly on laundry in the washing machine tub. Pre-dissolve the washing soda along with the laundry detergent in the wash water before adding clothes.

How to Use Washing Soda in the Laundry

You can find washing soda in the laundry section of the grocery store, one brand that comes to mind is Arm and Hammer. Add 1/2 cup of washing soda along with your detergent as the washing machine is filling with water so it may dissolve. It will help to soften water and improve your detergents effectiveness.

Washing soda will:

• Naturally softens hard water
• Improves the cleaning power of detergent
• Removes oil and grease
• Reduces hard water deposits
• Deodorizes
• Removes wax
• Removes lipstick

Using Borax to Soften Water in the Washing Machine

I love Borax. It’s inexpensive, and a natural laundry booster.

Borax is a natural mineral (sodium borate, sodium tetraborate, or disodium tetraborate) and a salt of boric acid. Borax is found deep underground with clay and other substances. It is a white powder that dissolves easily in water.

Borax is safe enough for baby clothes and delicate and strong enough to get rid of tough stains like grease and oil as well as those annoying grass stains that used to ruin my kid’s jeans.

Borax is alkaline and has a pH of 9.5. It softens water a little but its “extra special powers” are in supercharging your detergent. The pH level assists in removing stains, and borax actually breaks down into oxygen bleach which helps keep clothes bright and white. Borax is safe to use with additional chlorine or oxygen bleach as well.

How to Use Borax in the Laundry

You can find borax on grocery store shelves next to the laundry detergent. One brand that comes to mind is called 20 Mule Team.

Borax is a laundry detergent booster. Add 1/2 cup of borax along with detergent to your wash load to help to soften water and improve your detergent effectiveness.

Borax will:

• Naturally softens hard water
• Improves the cleaning power of detergent
• Helps to remove stains
• Helps to remove odor

These are a few natural ways to help soften the water used to wash your clothes and to boost your regular laundry detergents effectiveness.

Related Articles:

Laundry 101: Part 5, How to Use Laundry Detergent

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Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Getting Your Clothes White

Brightening white clothing is a little more than dumping a bunch of bleach in the wash. Bleach works well to brighten whites, and works great on cotton, but it can also ruin your clothes if not used properly.

Chlorine bleach is highly alkaline, and an oxidizer. Bleach is corrosive to many things- skin, eyes, and organic material. It reacts chemically with some other common cleaners, as well. Because of those risks I avoid chlorine bleach unless it’s really needed and it’s the only product that will do. (In some cases, it’s the best product to use.)

Whites should be separated from colors prior to washing to prevent color issues. There are several methods for achieving whiter whites.

It’s important to know the difference between all the brighteners, and use whatever is best and what is effective for the clothing you are washing.

Brighten Whites Using Chlorine Bleach

Liquid chlorine bleach in the bottle is a 5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite solution. Chlorine bleach is an oxidizer that removes many stains from cotton fabric and does a very nice job brightening whites. Chlorine bleach kills germs, bacteria, viruses, disinfects, sanitizes, and removes mold, mildew and odors.

You might find it interesting to know that bleach does not remove stains; it only removes the color of the stain. So technically, the stain solids may remain, you just can’t see it.

Chlorine bleach is a strong cleaning chemical and it should be used carefully.

• As I mentioned earlier, bleach is highly corrosive, so avoid contact with eyes, skin and mucus membranes.
• Work in a well-ventilated area, avoid breathing fumes. 
• Avoid contact with metal. Bleach will permanently discolor stainless steel, metal spoons or containers.
• Don’t use bleach on fabrics made of silk, wool, spandex, urethane or polyurethane, permanent-press fabrics, acetate, polypropylene foam, flame retardant fabrics or rubber.
• Never pour full-strength bleach into a clothes-filled washer.
• Never mix bleach with ammonia which will result in the formation of toxic fumes.
• Repeated use of chlorine bleach will weaken cellulose or cotton/ramie/linen fibers.
• Repeated use of chlorine bleach will cause yellowing of fabrics.
• Always check for color fastness first, following the instructions on the container, before using bleach.
• Read and follow care instructions and any warnings on the fabric care label regarding the use of bleach.
• Bleach starts to degrade after the bottle is opened. Replace after 6 months of opening for best results.

How to Use Chlorine Bleach

Bleach solutions need to be made fresh daily. Once diluted, bleach breaks down quickly-mainly into salt and water. (That’s the sodium part in bleach’s chemical name- sodium hypochlorite)

Chlorine bleach works best with cotton, ramie and linen whites in a hot or warm wash.

• Add chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment, filling to the top of the max fill line. Do not overfill.
• If your machine does not have a bleach compartment add 1/2 to 3/4 cup to the washer water, mixing well, before adding clothes.
• Launder as directed.
• Rinse thoroughly.
• If results are not what you expected (stain has not lightened, etc.), further investigate appropriate cleaning solution to use to remove the stain.

IMPORTANT: NEVER MIX AMMONIA WITH CHLORINE BLEACH. A TOXIC GAS WILL RESULT DUE TO A CHEMICAL REACTION.

Brightening Whites Using Oxygen Cleaners

Oxygen cleaners (like oxy-clean) are similar to hydrogen peroxide, but in a powder form. They brighten clothing without the corrosive effects of chlorine bleach.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, usually adding 1 cup per load in warm or hot water to revive even the most dingy white shirt.

Do not pour color-safe bleach into the bleach compartment. Add color-safe, non-chlorine bleach solutions to the detergent compartment, or where your manufacturer recommends powder should be added to your machine.

How to Brighten Whites Using Borax

To use Borax in the wash, add one-half cup of borax to each load to boost the cleaning power of the regular detergent. Add directly to the washing machine drum.

Using Borax as a Presoak to Whiten Dingy Whites

To whiten dingy whites, using a clean large plastic bin (I have one just for this purpose), add one-half cup of borax to every gallon of water. Add whites and allow them to soak for at least one hour (depending on what the item looks like, a longer soak may be better). Launder as usual.

Now that you know how to brighten whites, let’s move on to Laundry 101: Part 4, Laundry Boosters and Water Softeners

The post Laundry 101: Part 3 – Brightening Whites appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

What Mom Didn’t Tell You about Removing Stains

After many years of cleaning, we’ve learned some important things about the cleaners we use, and this impacts how we clean laundry and remove stains.

There’s nothing really complex or earth-shattering about it. But why on earth should getting laundry clean and removing stains be hard? In fact, I’ve got it all simplified and laid it out in easy steps. It should have never been so complicated to start with.

In Laundry 101 Part 1, we talked about stains, the different stain types and some stain removal methods. But that was just a part of it and here we continue on with stains and the variety of products you can use to remove them.

Buy and Use the Basic Cleaners

I don’t buy dishwashing detergent that contains bleach or laundry detergent that contains oxygen bleach. Adding extra chemicals without having the need to use them is not beneficial and can also be damaging in the long run. It also complicates things in the event you want to use a cleaner for something else. As an example: dishwashing detergent does not need bleach to start with. It’s excessive and one more chemical in your environment that’s going down the drain.

Use Your Cleaners with a Purpose in Mind

The flip side of my point above is to use the products specific to your need. When you need brightening and lightening, pull out the cleaners you need and use them. It’s less wasteful, less toxic to you and less damaging to your clothing. Bleach for example, degrades plastic gaskets, fades clothing, and is destructive to fabric.

Use as Little Cleaning Solution as Possible to Get the Job Done

Don’t throw a bunch of cleaners at a problem without knowing what you are doing. More is not always better and it’s certainly not the case when cleaning your clothes or removing stains.

Use the Gentlest Method to Remove a Stain as Possible

You don’t need to use a bulldozer when a shovel will do, and that goes for all stains.

Do Not Underestimate the Power of Simple and Natural Methods

I don’t have all of the non-toxic cleaners listed, but many of the simple and natural methods to clean, such as vinegar, baking soda, borax, lemon juice, and even sunlight and fresh air might be truly the best and most effective way to get something clean. It’s easy to be brain washed into thinking we need to buy some expensive specialty cleaning solution if we don’t have the experience to know what else works.

And last but not least…

Read the Manual, Label or Product Instructions. No Exceptions.

I’ve missed out on some valuable information that would have saved me a lot of trouble if I only read a label. I’ve learned the hard way, but I did learn.

Stain Sticks and Sprays

I have to admit I don’t typically buy specialty stain removers and our clothes are not stained. I get great results using the basic cleaning products I already have at home. It’s not only cheaper, but it’s more efficient as well.

Having a stain stick or spray in case of emergencies might be a good idea in your home, but you don’t have to use all those stain sticks, sprays and magic elixirs, despite what the advertisements say. Everything you need to remove stains is probably listed right here.

There are a variety of commercial spot removers on the market, usually in the form of a spray or sticks. You apply the stain remover to the stain, wait for the time directed, and then wash.

If you go this route there’s not a lot more that needs to be said, other than to check the product instructions to see if the stain remover was meant to remove the type of stain you are working on.

Different Stains, Different Cleaning Solutions

Grease, coffee, blood, rust, grass or inks all need different cleaning solutions. A lot of frustration can be avoided if you make sure that the stain stick you’re using is meant to remove the stain you’re working on. Removing stains is not a “one size fits all” type of problem.

Making Your Own Stain Stick

If you’re the crafty type, you can make your own stain stick, laundry detergent and even bar soap. The website Frugally Sustainable published a detailed recipe with some easy instructions on how to make your own stain stick. I really like the idea because you control the ingredients, chemicals and scent, if you even choose to use any scent at all. Adding essential oils, like lavender or rosemary makes it really appealing to me, I love essential oils.

The ingredients are very basic. And don’t be afraid of the lye and lard in the recipe. Soap has been made this way for centuries. It’s an age-old recipe.

Homemade Laundry Stain Stick

• 2 pounds lard
• 4.39 ounces lye
• 10 ounces water
• 1 ounce eucalyptus essential oils, optional
• 1/2 ounce lemon essential oils, optional

If you are interested in making your own stain stick or laundry soap, the frugally sustainable web site has the complete instructions for making homemade soap.

But my point is that a stain stick is really just concentrated laundry detergent, but in a different form. Save your money. Your laundry detergent, dish soap or shampoo is a concentrate that can work just as well as a stain stick. Hydrogen peroxide, oxygen bleach, or enzyme products can be used as needed depending on the specific stain you are working on. That’s just about all you need.

Using Laundry Detergent or Dish Soap to Remove Stains

Laundry detergent and dish soap are what I reach for to remove grease, oil, and many food stains.

They are the best pre-treatment items for grease and oil. After all, soap and detergent are made to cut grease, remove oil, dirt and grime from your laundry and dishes. It makes perfect sense that they’re wonderful stain removers too, doesn’t it?

Avoid using detergents that have chlorine or oxygen bleach in them to pre-treat a stain. Chlorine bleach may discolor your clothing, and though oxygen bleach is color safe, if the rest of the garment is somewhat dingy, there’s a possibility the oxygen bleach may lighten the appearance slightly and that would be a problem too. I don’t know of any laundry detergents that have chlorine bleach in them, but some have oxygen bleach. I’ve seen some dish soaps that contain chlorine bleach, so just be careful and double check before using them.

Treating a Stain with Detergent and or Dish Soap

1. Rinse the stain in lukewarm/warm water to remove any solids
2. Do not use hot water as you want to avoid spreading the stain further
3. Pour a little of the concentrated laundry/dish soap right on the stain
4. Rub in gently with your fingers
5. Let it sit for about 30 minutes
6. Repeat as necessary
7. Launder according to the fabric and detergent instructions
8. Any remaining stain might require a different cleaning solution

Using straight laundry detergent to remove stains has saved me a ton of money.

If you’ve caught it quickly enough, and the grimy dirt is removed there’s a good chance the stain will be removed too.

Using Hydrogen Peroxide/Oxygen Bleach to Remove Stains

I love using hydrogen peroxide to remove stains. It’s the cleaning solution I use to remove coffee stains without damaging fabric. Hydrogen peroxide has all the benefits of using chlorine bleach without the risks.

Hydrogen peroxide is very similar to water- it’s just missing an atom or so. But because it’s an oxidizer, it lightens, brightens and removes stains. The bleaching action is called “redox” which is short for reduction-oxidization. That’s the same way chlorine bleach works to remove stains.

Hydrogen peroxide converts to water when exposed to sunlight, which is nice because it means it leaves no residue, but that also means it won’t work if you are trying to remove a stain and it’s being exposed to sunlight at the time you are working on it. (This is why hydrogen peroxide comes in a dark brown bottle.) You can cover it with a towel, dishcloth, etc if needed.

If you haven’t used hydrogen peroxide and are worried about color-fastness, test in an inconspicuous place first.

Hydrogen peroxide helps to remove these kinds of stains:

• Blood stains
• Coffee stains
• Rust stains
• Iron stains
• Red wine stains
• Fruit Juice stains
• Berry stains

Removing Stains with Hydrogen Peroxide

1. Pour regular 3 percent hydrogen peroxide on the stain
2. Check in 1 hour
3. Apply more hydrogen peroxide if needed
4. Let it sit for 30 minutes
5. Let air dry completely
6. Repeat if necessary

If you need to remove a stain that’s in direct sunlight (like on the carpet or similar):

1. Follow the cleaning steps (above)
2. After you have applied the hydrogen peroxide
3. Cover the stain with a sheet of plastic wrap
4. Put a towel on top to shield the stain from the sun
5. Check in 1 hour
6. Apply more hydrogen peroxide if needed
7. Cover the stain with the plastic and towel again
8. Check after 30 minutes
9. Let air dry completely
10. Repeat if necessary

The plastic wrap will stop the towel from soaking up the hydrogen peroxide, and the hydrogen peroxide will happily continue to work on the stain in the dark!

I don’t have to worry about direct sun exposure, so I usually lay the stained item flat on my washing machine, and pour the hydrogen peroxide right on the top of the stain. It’s easy to keep track of the progress, and when the stain is gone, I just toss my garment in the washing machine.

Using Oxygen Bleach to Remove Stains

Oxygen bleach (like oxyclean) is NOT hydrogen peroxide, but the effects are the same. Hydrogen peroxide is a liquid, and oxygen bleach is sodium percarbonate or sodium perborate. These chemicals are oxidizers that are stable in a powder form.

When sodium percarbonate or sodium perborate is combined with water, oxygen is released. This chemical reaction removes the stain, breaks up grime and brightens the fabric.

The cleaning and bleaching reaction occurs at the time the powder is mixed with water, so you can’t mix the solution ahead of time and put it in a spray bottle to use later (just in case you were thinking of doing that).

Because there are mineral solids in oxygen bleach, there will be a residue from the powder. That powder will need to be completely rinsed and removed after using it.

Using Rubbing Alcohol (Isopropyl Alcohol) to Remove Stains

Rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol) or methylated spirits (Denatured alcohol) are great all-purpose spot removers.

Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly and is fairly non-toxic. Rubbing alcohol is a solvent and a cleaning fluid. Alcohol helps to dissolve (make soluble) many different types of stains, including oil, and then you can wash or rinse it away.

Rubbing alcohol is a solvent and works to remove:

• Ground in grass stains
• Water based ink stains
• Permanent marker ink stains
• Ballpoint pen ink stains
• Chewing gum
• Pencil lead
• Mustard stains
• Shoe polish stains
• Paint stains
• Varnish stains
• Hair dye stains
• Black heel marks
• Red wine stains
• Residual glue from some sticky labels

Removing Stains with Rubbing Alcohol

1. Place a clean dry cloth under the stained fabric
2. Dab rubbing alcohol onto the stain
3. Blot with a clean dry cloth
4. Dab, blot, dab, blot, dab, blot until no stain remains
5. Add a little laundry detergent on top of the stain
6. Let sit for 15 minutes
7. Wash in the hottest water that is safe for the fabric
8. Check the stain before you put it in the dryer
9. If any stain remains, repeat step 1

Ammonia and Stain Removal

Ammonia smells to high heaven, but it works and has been used for centuries as a cleaner but don’t worry; the smell should be gone when your wash load is complete.

Ammonia works by saponification to remove greasy oil stains- That is: it chemically converts the stain to soap, and then the stain will be washed away. Other types of stains are dissolved due to the high alkalinity of the cleaning solution.

CAUTION: Never mix ammonia with bleach or with products that contain chlorine bleach.

Ammonia and bleach combined together will produce a hazardous gas. Chlorine gas and chloramines are formed, and those most certainly are not a joke. Chlorine gas can cause severe lung damage and can be life threatening.

Personally, I might think twice about letting bleach and ammonia sit next to each other on the shelf. Am I over reacting? Possibly but it’s better to be safe than sorry. It may also be a good idea to wear a mask and gloves when using ammonia and use in well ventilated area.

In all honesty I’ve been unfortunate enough to breathe chlorine gas. It took my breath away. Call me paranoid, but I most definitely do not want to repeat that experience ever again.

Ammonia helps to remove these stains:

• Perspiration stains
• Set in blood stains
• Urine stains (CLOTHING STAINS ONLY-Don’t use it on carpet)
• Pencil marks
• Paint stains
• Grease stains

Removing stains with ammonia:

1. Saturate the stain with a 50/50 solution of ammonia and water
2. Massage in gently
3. Let sit for 30 minutes
4. Launder as usual

Removing heavy duty stains with Ammonia

Make a cleaning solution consisting of:

• 1 cup of warm water
• 1/2 cup of ammonia
• 1/2 cup laundry detergent

Spray the solution on the stain and let it sit for 30 minutes. Then rinse and wash as usual.

IMPORTANT: NEVER MIX AMMONIA WITH CHLORINE BLEACH. A TOXIC GAS WILL RESULT DUE TO A CHEMICAL REACTION. I think it’s worth saying this again, just in case if you didn’t pay attention to my first warning!

Using Club Soda as a Stain Remover

Club soda is a fun and effective stain remover (I know, I’m a little weird). The effervescent bubbles help to bring the stain to the surface of the fabric where it can be simply blotted and washed away. Club soda is an excellent stain remover for red wine stains. The trick is to get to it fast.

If red or white wine have stained your clothing:

1. Pour 1/4 cup of club soda on the spilled wine
2. Blot, blot, blot to remove the residue.
3. Pour 1/4 more cup of club soda on the spilled wine
4. Blot, blot, blot to remove the rest of residue
5. Launder the garment as usual

Denture Cleaning Tablets Can Help Remove Stains

Denture cleaning tablets are acidic, and the acid helps to remove stains from many things. Coffee stains, tomato sauce, or any other acid based stain can be removed using denture cleaners. It’s also great for removing stains from cotton whites and linens.

Denture cleaning tablets help to remove these stains:

• Coffee stains
• Tea stains
• Food dye stains
• Perspiration Stains
• Mustard stains
• Tomato based stains

Removing stains with denture cleaning tablets:

1. Put the denture cleaner tablets in a glass
2. Add water and let the tablets dissolve completely
3. Pour on the stain and massage in gently
4. Let sit for 30 minutes
5. Launder as usual
6. If the stain remains after washing, go back to step 1 and repeat.
7. Do not dry your stained item in the dryer until the stain is completely gone.

Using Glycerin for Stain Removal

Glycerin is a byproduct of soap making (saponification) and is a combination of fat and oils.

Glycerin is an excellent solvent and is useful in softening old or set stains. Because it is a byproduct of soap, it’s an excellent cleaner and degreaser. It helps to loosen makeup, lipstick, ink and shoe polish stains.

Glycerin helps to remove these stains:

• Juice stains
• Ketchup
• Mustard
• BBQ sauces
• Coffee
• Self-tanning lotion
• Lipstick
• Ink
• Marker

Recipe for glycerin stain remover:

To make an excellent glycerin stain remover, mix 1 part glycerin to 2 parts water and add some mild detergent for extra cleaning and degreasing power:

• 2 tablespoons liquid dish detergent (like Dawn)
• 1 cup glycerin
• 2 cups water

Removing Stains with Glycerin

1. Spray or pour a small amount of the glycerin cleaning solution right on the stain
2. Massage it in gently
3. Let sit for 30-60 minutes
4. Launder as usual

Shaving Cream Can Help in the Stain Removal Process

Shaving cream is not just for removing hair! Made from soap, oil, surfactant, water and alcohol, shaving cream is both easy to use and very effective for removing many greasy, oily clothing stains.

Removing fabric stains with shaving cream:

1. Work a squirt of shaving cream with your fingertips into dampened fabric
2. Let it sit about 30 minutes
3. Wash as usual

Shaving cream is also a good stain remover for carpet stains:

1. Squirt the shaving cream on the stain
2. Work it gently into the carpet
3. Let it sit undisturbed for 30 minutes
4. Use a clean rag dampened with plain water and dab, dab, dab the stain away

Protein Enzymes and Meat Tenderizer are Effective Stain Removers

Meat tenderizers are enzymes that tenderize meat by breaking down and dissolving tough fibers. Enzymes are effective stain removers for protein based stains:

• Milk
• Chocolate milk
• Ice cream
• Blood
• Baby food
• Gravy
• Eggs
• Meat
• Urine

Luckily for us, the natural enzymes we buy for meat tenderizer are easy, safe, plant based and do a great job removing stains. To use a meat tenderizer as a protein stain remover, find one that does not contain additional seasonings like garlic and salt. Just straight meat tenderizer.

Look for either active ingredient, both of these will work:

• Bromelain: a protease enzyme that comes from the stems of pineapple plants and is the active ingredient in Mccormick’s Unseasoned Meat Tenderizer.
• Papain: a protease enzyme that comes from papayas and is the active ingredient in Adolph’s Meat Tenderizer.

Now let’s take a look at Laundry 101 Part 3 – Brightening Whites

The post Laundry 101: Part 2 – Removing Stains – Different Stains, Different Cleaning Solution appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You About Stains

No matter how hard you try to keep up with it, the fact is there will always be dirty laundry piling up in your home. It’s a never ending race against time.

Most of us don’t enjoy doing laundry; washing, drying or folding! I get it, I’m right there with you. Life is busy but clothes just need to be clean.

Laundry may be your least favorite job in the entire house, but it’s worse if you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s worse even still if you ruin your clothes.

Is there a laundry monster? Yes. Can you tame the laundry monster? Yes you can!

Cleaning your clothing does not need to be difficult and we’ve got all the tips and tricks to get your clothes clean and stain free.

Let’s go over everything you ever wanted to know about washing your clothes but were afraid to ask.

The Laundry Problem

Washing machines are built to clean clothes and rinse them thoroughly when used correctly. Too much or too little of anything is a problem when cleaning clothing.

There are 6 things that you need to understand to clean your clothes properly:

1. Water quality and quantity: detergent boosters, water softeners and load size.
2. Water temperature: use the right temperature for the job.
3. Cleaning agents: use the right detergent and the right amount.
4. Rinsing and fabric softening agents: remove all traces of soap and reduce static build up.
5. Using color brighteners: keeping your whites, white.
6. Removing stains: removing stains completely and without damaging fabric.

Getting any one of these wrong can cause all sorts of problems. Besides having clothes that aren’t clean or smell bad, Soap residue and mineral build up can even cause your washing machine to stink or malfunction.

• Poor soil removal
• Odors on clothing
• Odors in washing machine
• Color fading
• Dingy whites
• Inadequate absorption capacity (especially cloth diapers and cotton towels)
• Contact dermatitis
• Skin allergies

I could go on, but I think you get the point. It’s NOT a good thing!

Stains Can Be Difficult to Remove Even for Experts

Most novice cleaners will try to use hot water and throw all sorts of stain removers on the stain.

You might get lucky and remove the stain, but many times you won’t. There are just a few rules to follow when removing stains and if you know the tricks, stains won’t have much of a chance of sticking around.

• Act quickly
• Know what the stain is made from
• Know the cleaners that the fabric can withstand
• Know the stain removal products and why you choose one product over another
• Know the proper procedures for removing the stain from the fabric
• Don’t mix cleaning products
• Don’t dry the garment in the dryer until the stain is gone
• Be gentle
• Be patient

So what’s the Deal with Stains and Stain Removers?

When dealing with extra soiled or stained clothing, a laundry booster or stain remover adds some extra punch to help get laundry clean.

The way to remove stains varies depending on what the stain is made of, and what material has been stained.

The experts know that because a stain can have many ingredients to it, each stain might require multiple methods and cleaners to remove it completely.

An example is spaghetti sauce: The red tomato sauce and the grease will need different cleaners. There’s not a “one-size fits all” cleaning solution in the land of stain removal.

Basic Stain Categories

To determine how to remove a stain, you need to find out what the stain is made of. The groups are broken into several types: Organic, non-organic, pigments and dyes, protein, plant, oil, ink and permanent marker.

Many stains fit into multiple categories.

Organic Stains

Organic stains are biological like: milk, blood, egg, urine. Rinse with cold water, treat with enzymes or degreaser and launder in cold water. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed to remove remaining stain.

Non-Organic Stains

Non-organic stains are not of human, animal or plant origin such as: rust, mineral, makeup, ink, wax. Remove with acids (white vinegar or lemon juice, or rust remover.)

Pigment and Dye Stains

Pigment and dye stains consist of: wine, grass, berry stains. Remove stain with detergent, solvent, alkaline cleaner. Rubbing alcohol is effective for grass stains. Hot water removes berry stains. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed.

Protein Stains

Protein stains come from: milk, blood, egg, perspiration, any of animal or human origin. Rinse with cold water, treat with enzymes or degreaser and launder in cold water. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed to remove remaining stain.

Plant Based Stains

Plant based stains such as: grass, coffee, tea, wine, juice. Remove with enzyme, solvents, or degreaser. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed.

Greasy Stains

Greasy stains are – well – grease stains such as: butter, oil and the like. Degrease with a detergent and pretreat with a spray or stick.

Ink and Marker Stains

Ink and marker stains are just what it sounds like: ballpoint ink, drawing ink, felt tip ink. Remove with solvents.

Basic Methods of Stain Removal

The stain and the item the stain is on must be considered. Choose a removal method and cleaning solution that works for the stain that won’t damage the fabric.

• Dissolve it (solvents/solvency)
• Degrease it (detergents/detergency)
• Convert it (soap/saponification)
• Bleach it (redox/reduction-oxidation)
• Break it (enzymes/digestion)

Basic Guidelines to Follow when Removing Stains

Treat the Stain Gently, Be Patient and Don’t Rub or Scrub

It may often take more than one application of a stain remover to completely remove a stain.

Blot Gently with a Clean Towel

It’s effective and will reduce the chance of damaging your stained item.

Remove Stains As Soon As you Find Them

The longer a stain sits, the harder it is to remove. Stains can become permanent over time due to a chemical reaction with the fabric.

When in Doubt Do Not Use Heat

Do not try to remove the stain with hot water, or dry it in the dryer, unless you are specifically directed to. If you don’t know what to use, use cold or lukewarm water right from the tap. Hot water or drying the clothing in the dryer will set many stains and make it much more difficult, if not impossible to remove completely.

Like Removes Like

When choosing your stain remover, select the solution based on the pH of its ingredients. You can best remember this as “like removes like”. That means that stains from acids become soluble and are best removed with another acid. Base or alkaline stains become soluble and are removed with other alkaline bases.

Stains are Made of Multiple Ingredients

What works for one stain might not work for another seemingly similar stain. (Of course!)

Try One Cleaning Solution at a Time

If one stain remover doesn’t work, rinse the item completely before trying another. Don’t mix chemicals.

Check the Stain after Washing

Set the garment aside for more treatment if the stain remains after you have tried to remove it.

Do Not Put Stained Clothing in the Dryer

We say this all the time: “Heat may set the stain permanently. Only dry the clothing in the dryer when the stain is completely gone”.

CAUTION: If you use products that are common to have in the home, they are not inherently safe. Cleaning products are chemicals that react to other chemicals, just like all chemicals do. Always try one cleaning solution by itself and rinse completely before trying another cleaning solution.

Laundry 101 Part 2 – Stain Removal Methods Continued

The post Laundry 101: Part 1 – Stains – Stain Types and Removal Methods appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Cleaning Naturally Around the Home Using Simple Ingredients.

Earth Friendly Cleaning Around the House

More and more consumers have become aware of the impact that chemical laden products have and the harm they can do to the environment. Cleaning a home with these products is merely introducing more toxins into your surroundings that not only harm the earth but can cause health issues for you and your family.

Are you looking for ways to ditch the chemicals and clean with more natural products? People have been cleaning naturally and effectively for centuries so why can’t you? And it’s not difficult and it’s cost effective plus you’ll feel better when cleaning your house.

When Life Gives You Lemons, Use Them to Remove Stains

We use lemons for drinks and food garnishes, but are they an effective stain remover? Lemon juice can help brighten whites and work to remove some stains and they do add a nice fresh lemony scent but it may be easier to use other bleach alternatives such as hydrogen peroxide, vinegar or baking soda.

Fresh lemon juice is the way to go instead of using the bottled form you buy in the store as those contain additives but fresh lemons require cutting and juicing which can be time consuming and not really cost effective (compared to the alternatives) as you would need to juice three or four lemons per load.

If you want to try lemon juice yourself to see how it works on whites, below are a few options.

Using Lemon Juice in the Washing Machine

For brighter whites and fresh smelling laundry:

1. Add laundry detergent to dispenser.
2. Start washing machine to fill tub with water.
3. When 1/2  full of water, add 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup lemon juice (depending on size of load)
4. Add whites and wash as usual.

Soaking Dingy Whites in Lemon Juice

Sometimes our whites just get dingy looking over time or they were accidentally washed with darks:

1. In a large mixing bowl combine 3/4 cups boiling water and 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice.
2. With a clean pair of thick kitchen gloves on add white clothing to mixture and saturate item (you can also use a clean spatula to saturate item, just be cautious as water is hot).
3. Let sit 45 to 60 minutes.
4. Wash as usual.

Removing Fresh Pasta Sauce Stain with Lemon Juice

Who doesn’t love a fresh noodle dishes with pasta sauce? And how many times has it made its way to the tablecloth and/or napkins?

1. Cut a lemon in half.
2. Remove any clumps of pasta / pasta sauce.
3. Turn stained area over and from the back side squeeze lemon juice over the stain then rub the lemon around the stain. Repeat until you see the stain is being removed.
4. Rinse under water and if any stain remains squeeze more of the lemon juice then sprinkle salt over the remaining stain and rub the lemon over that.
5. Rinse and stain should be gone. Wash as usual.

Just remember with any stain removal process you use, do not put clothing items in the dryer until you know the stain is gone as the heat from the dryer can permanently set the stain.

How to Cleaning and Remove Stains from Countertops

There are so many varieties of materials used to make countertops today you may be confused as to which method is best for the type of countertop you have in your kitchen.

Cleaning and Removing Stains from Wood Countertops

Wood countertops are vulnerable to warping and cracking if not cared for correctly, therefore they should be sealed for protection and one option is to use food grade oil or wax.

To clean these types of countertops, clean as needed throughout the day with nonabrasive cleaners such as warm water and a touch of white vinegar and always wipe dry. If there is any stuck on food residue, gently use a spatula to remove prior to cleaning.

To remove stains, sprinkle with salt and gently use half a lemon to rub over the stain. Remove the salt and lemon juice with water and white vinegar as mentioned above.

Cleaning and Removing Stains from Marble and Granite Countertops

For these types of countertops do not use anything abrasive or acidic to clean or you risk permanently damaging or etching the stone. Marble and granite are tough but they do need to be resealed regularly to protect them from stains and scratches.

For everyday cleaning all you need is a touch of mild dish soap mixed with warm water. Dry with a microfiber cloth.

To remove oil based stains make a paste of baking soda and water. Apply the paste to the stain then cover with plastic wrap and tape down edges. Avoid putting anything on this area as it will need to sit overnight (possibly longer depending on the stain). When finished, rinse off the paste, repeat if necessary then clean with mild dish soap and warm water, wiping dry when finished.

To remove water based stains follow the steps above only make a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide.

Spot test in an inconspicuous place first to make sure these methods don’t affect the finish or color of the stone.

Removing Burned Food from Pots and Pans

Burnt pots and pans are never a fun thing to clean. I thought it was a good thing when my kids took an interest in cooking and that it would give me a little more time for other things. I was so incredibly wrong. They may like to cook but I spend more time in the kitchen cleaning and removing burnt food out of the pots and pans.

Cleaning with Coarse Salt

One natural way to clean pots and pans is with coarse salt. It works like a charm.

• Rinse the pot out to remove any loose debris.
• Pour a cup of water into the pan and slowly bring to a boil.
• As it starts to boil, use a spatula to loosen bits of burned food. When finished dump contents down the drain.
• Sprinkle the bottom of the pan with coarse salt.
• Cut a lemon in half and scrub away.

Cleaning Burnt Food from Non-Stick Cookware

After removing as much food and debris from the pan as possible then add a layer of warm water to the pan and sprinkle with baking soda and make a paste. Scrub gently with a sponge or nylon brush that is safe for non-stick surfaces. Let this sit overnight, gently scrub again and rinse. Repeat if necessary.

Removing Soap Scum

Soap scum is one of most people’s biggest pet peeves. It seems to get noticed especially when you are getting ready to step into the shower and find that icky ring around the tub. Don’t worry, arm yourself with this natural method to clean the shower and tub and keep it clean.

Note: Do not use on granite, marble or any natural stone as it contains vinegar which is slightly acidic and can damage the stone.

• In a spray bottle mix together a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water.
• Spray the soap scum and surrounding area well.
• Use a scrubby pad or scrub brush to clean the area.

One proactive approach to keep soap scum at bay is to keep a squeegee in the shower and wipe down walls and tub area when finished. In between regular cleanings this disinfectant cleaner can be used prior to getting in the shower to keep the area clean.

Natural and All Purpose Cleaner Recipe

This is a very easy recipe to make and only takes a few ingredients. I use this for basic cleaning up of messes on counters, floors, cabinets, doors, light switches and the like. This is not a disinfectant cleaner, just a basic all purpose cleaner.

Mix together one teaspoon each of borax and liquid castile soap, then add in a half teaspoon of washing soda and 2 cups warm water. Gently stir to combine all ingredients. It’s optional but you can add in about 15 drops of your favorite essential oils for a nice clean scent. Pour into a spray bottle and label.

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Removing Chap Stick Stains from Clothing

I have fought chap stick stains for years. When there are two young girls in the house, you find tubes of Chapstick almost everywhere – furniture, broken on the floor and the laundry – to just name a few places.

When a tube of chap stick goes through a load of laundry, it can get over every article of clothing in that load. If you’re not sure how to tackle a chap stick stain, it can get costly replacing clothes and I was getting tired of fighting the stain and the crowds at the mall.

So how do you treat a chap stick stain? Much the same way you would remove a candle wax stain.

What to Do

Just like removing a candle wax stain, Chapstick stains are not impossible to remove, it just takes time.

• If there are some clumps of semi-solid chap stick, remove it with a dull knife or spoon.
• If necessary, you can put the item in the freezer, let the wax harden, then remove more.
• If the stain is small, try using a dishwashing liquid like Dawn. Wet the area then carefully use an old toothbrush to clean.
• If the stain is larger and covers more surface area, try using the iron method.

The Iron Method for Removing Waxy Residue

After removing as much of the Chapstick as possible, you’ll most likely be left with a greasy/oily stain from the wax.

• First get a clean towel and place under the area you will be ironing.
• Then tear a brown paper bag or use a couple layers of paper towel and completely cover the area.
• Set the iron to a low/medium heat and run it over the paper. Keep the iron moving so it doesn’t overheat the paper.
• This process will help lift and transfer the residue onto the paper.
• Repeat as needed. Move to a clean piece of paper or replace as needed.

Removing Colored Chap Stick Dye Stains

If the chap stick had color to it and there is a bit of a stain remaining, try the following:

• Dishwashing liquid may help remove left over dye stains.
• Rubbing alcohol may also help remove any remaining dye stains.

Apply liquid to the stain, gently rub or blot until stain is gone.

Using Un-Du Wax Remover

At some point I contacted the chap stick manufacturer directly to ask what their opinion was on getting chap stick stains out of clothes. They recommended Un-Du wax remover. I was very pleasantly surprised to find that it works really well for getting chap stick stains out of clothing.

Un-Du Wax Remover works like a charm, and is available in grocery and big box stores. If you think about it, it makes sense as the primary component of chap stick is a form of wax.

Once you discover the stain, add a few drops of un-du and carefully rub over the area. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Let sit for about 30 minutes. Wash again with your regular detergent and the warmest setting recommended for the fabric.

If necessary, I would put a clean cloth behind the area you’re working on. That way if there is any color from the chap stick it won’t transfer to a clean area of the item.

Cleaning Residue from the Washer and Dryer

It’s possible after a tube of chap stick has gone through the washer and/or dryer there may be some of the waxy residue left on the walls of the drum. To err on the side of caution, you can clean them easily.

Cleaning the Washer Drum

Get a clean rag, wet it and apply liquid laundry detergent. Wipe down the sides, bottom and under the top lip of the drum. Run a hot water cycle.

Cleaning the Dryer Drum

Run a few damp cleaning rags in the dryer for about 10 minutes to heat the drum. Pour some white vinegar on one of the cleaning rags you had in the dryer and wipe down the drum. The vinegar smell will dissipate after a short period of time so there is no need to wipe down further but if you want, take another one of the cleaning rags and wet it with plain water and wipe down the drum with that.

We don’t always remember, but try and check the pockets before doing laundry to prevent these kinds of stains.

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