What Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Drying and Folding Your Clothes

The next step after washing your clothes is learning how to dry your clothes effectively. If you’re afraid that any of your garments will shrink in the heat of the dryer, hang them up or lay them flat to dry.

Pull out any items from the washer that had been pre-treated with a stain remover and inspect to make sure that the stain is completely gone. If a stain remains after washing, set the item aside to continue working to remove the stain. Putting any clothing in the dryer (heat) with a stain may set the stain and then you might not be able to get rid of it.

Otherwise, take all the clothes out of the washer, shake them so they’re not balled-up and toss them in the dryer.

Choose the appropriate dryer setting for the clothes. For example, heavy sweatshirts can go on the “normal” setting while dress shirts and khakis should go on “permanent press” or another light setting.

Dryer Settings

• Sensor Dry – automatically senses the moisture in the load and shuts the dryer off when the selected dryness level (very dry to damp dry) is reached. This cycle is recommended for the majority of loads including delicate items, wrinkle free and cotton/sturdy items like towels, bedding and jeans.
• Time Dry – may be selected for any load if sensor dry is not used. Use dryer time settings to select the desired number of minutes.

Dryer Temperature

• Regular – for sturdy cottons or those labeled “Tumble Dry.”
• Medium – for permanent press, synthetics, lightweight cottons or items labeled “Tumble Dry Medium.”
• Delicate – for heat sensitive items labeled “Tumble Dry Low” or “Tumble Dry Warm.”

Dryness Level

• Very Dry – used to completely dry sturdy or bulky items including towels and jeans.
• Normal – used for drying the majority of loads.
• Damp Dry – designed to partially dry items. Used for items that lay flat or hang to dry.

Important Tip:

When the dryer buzzer goes off, get the clothes out right away and start folding! This will keep the fabric wrinkle free and make your job much easier. Having to run the “wrinkle rid” cycle again (if you’ve left them too long) wastes time and energy.

Dryer Tips

Bedspreads and Comforters

• Follow the care label instructions or dry on the sensor dry cycle. Most bedspreads and comforters should be dried one at a time.
• Regular temperature.
• Be sure the item is thoroughly dry before using or storing.
• May require repositioning to ensure even drying.

Blankets

• Use sensor dry and if blankets are large, dry only one blanket at a time for best tumbling action.
• Be sure the item is thoroughly dry before using or storing.

Curtains and Draperies

• Use the sensor dry cycle and extra low temperature to help minimize wrinkling.
• Dry these in small loads for best results and remove as soon as possible.

Cloth Diapers

• Use sensor dry and the regular temperature setting for soft, fluffy diapers.

Down Filled Items

• Use sensor dry and the extra low temperature setting.
• Place a clean pair of sneakers in the dryer with the item to fluff the down comforters, etc. Adding a couple of dry towels shortens dry time and absorbs moisture.

Foam Rubber

• Do not dry on a heat setting. Use the air fluff special cycle (no heat).
• WARNING – Drying a rubber item with heat may damage it or be a fire hazard.

Pillows

• Use sensor dry.
• Add a couple of dry towels and a pair of clean sneakers to help the tum- bling action and to fluff the item.
• Do not dryer-dry kapok or foam pillows.

Tips for Folding Your Clothes

My favorite part of doing laundry is folding. I think it’s kind of relaxing. I remember my little girls running towards me as I was folding diapers (Yes, I used cotton diapers on my kids), and they’d jump right into the big warm mountain of clean cotton, and then into my arms. Those are very good memories.

Pick a Comfortable Work Area

Find a good location with an adequate size clean table or counter. Folding in a small, cramped space makes it difficult to create neat small stacks. If the stack of folded clothing gets too high, the clothing will tumble over.

• If standing: Pick a surface that is about waist high. Too high will be hard on your shoulder muscles, too low and your back will be screaming at you later. Also, make sure the clean clothes basket can sit comfortably on the folding space. This will help you avoid bending continuously to pick up clothes. Doing this will be better for your back and save you time.
• If sitting: It is best to have the basket at waist level. So, if you are sitting on a couch and using your coffee table to fold, place the basket on the coffee table not on the couch next to you. Placing the basket in front of you (or slightly off to the side) on the coffee table helps you avoid twisting and will make your job faster.

Sort and Fold

Now that you have picked your area and have your “work station” it is time to get folding.

1. Pick up an item and fold on your work table.
2. Start stacks for each person in your household. I like to have an “area” for each person consisting of their stacked jeans,  t-shirts, undies, etc.
3. Make stacks for bathroom towels, kitchen towels, and miscellaneous items, place in stacks by location that the items will be stored.
4. Continue folding and stacking until all items are folded and assigned to their proper “stack.

Now that you have the laundry sorted into stacks, combine stacks to create one for each person. Large items on bottom (jeans), t-shirts next, under garments then socks. This keeps each person’s stack stable and is easier for THEM to put away!

Why bother you ask? I have found if the stack is too wobbly when people are putting away the clothes, they tend to tip and fall on the floor. When this happens, I have noticed that it is easier for the person (kids) that’s putting the clothes away to throw those perfectly clean clothes back into the dirty laundry, rather than to re-fold them and put away.

Amazing but true! I said that I enjoy doing laundry but not that much!

Folding Large items

Over-sized towels, sheets, blankets and comforters can be a hassle and awkward to fold.

The best option is to get someone to help hold corners and fold the item. This way you can avoid having your clean sheets or blankets touch your not-so-clean floor.

If you can’t get someone to help hold corners and fold, then you can use a bed or large dining table. They are both at a decent level and you can spread your item out without touching the floor.

It will be slower than having help, but it works better than trying to use a small table or the floor.

Speaking of Help

The only part about doing laundry that I used to dread was the part where something did not get in the wash and there was some crisis because of it, and somehow it was my fault. The blame game ended when I gave everyone a specific task and created a system. Doing this will make your job more enjoyable and all things will go much smoother. Here are ways to get help:

• Have everyone be responsible for getting clothes into the laundry area before laundry day. My wash day is Saturday and sometimes the kids get reminders, sometimes they don’t but they know the rules.
• I fold and stack laundry but it’s everyone’s job to put their own clean laundry away.
• Young children love the “sock sorting game”. Have a contest to see who can match the most or just have fun. It is helpful to get kids started young helping with laundry or any household chore.

Folding laundry can be enjoyable. Sometimes I fold watching a bit of TV, sometimes I like to fold to music and sometimes I listen to audio books. To me, folding is relaxing and one of the most enjoyable household tasks. Maybe it is because I always reward myself with a good cup of coffee afterwards!

The post Laundry 101: Part 8 – Tips for Drying and Folding Clothes appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

What Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Washing Your Clothes

Clothes are not inexpensive and chances are you’ve invested a pretty penny on some items over the years. Knowing how to wash clothes is essential if you want them looking good each time you wear them.

If you’ve been known to grab clothes from the hamper and simply throw them into the washing machine without a second glance, then you may be making more work for yourself in the long run.

There’s more to laundry than just washing and drying clothes. Doing the laundry is about getting your clothes clean and that can be a lot harder than people assume.

Using the right detergents, correct water temperatures, checking labels, and removing stains, these and more can help prolong the life of your wardrobe, preserve colors, and keep the fabric looking like new.

Separate, Prepare and Pre-Treat Laundry

If you can get your laundry prepared for washing beforehand and assigning each item to a particular color pile, this can be a great time saver. Clothes should be separated by lights, darks, whites, and delicates/handwash. Whites and lights can most likely be combined to save time as long as the fabrics are similar.

We all know how important it is to separate whites from colors before throwing them into the wash, but did you also know that you should wash lint-making fabrics separately from fabrics that don’t create lint?

I’ve ruined (at least temporarily) clothing by washing it with new towels or blankets. My shirts and pants were completely covered in lint when they came out of the wash and it took a while to get rid of it completely.

If you can get a hamper with three to four compartments or use individual laundry baskets, you can sort your clothes right when you take them off.

• Whites – Underwear, t-shirts and socks that are washed in hot water
• Lights – Light colors like pastels that are washed in warm water
• Darks – Dark colors that are washed in cold water
• Hand wash – Delicate garments that need to be washed by hand or a delicate or handwash cycle
• Other – Set aside extremely soiled clothes to launder by themselves

Sorting as you take your clothes off each night will save time on laundry day and will prevent the above mentioned white socks from turning pink if they’re washed with a red t-shirt.

It’s also a good idea to get into the habit of reading the care labels on your clothes to make sure you’re washing them correctly.

Preparing Clothes Prior to Washing

Preparing your clothes prior to washing can prevent snagging, discoloration, stains from becoming permanent, and actually help your clothes get the cleanest they can be.

Set Aside Clothing That Needs to be Repaired

Set aside any garments that need to be repaired. A lose button can become a tear and so on.

Pull Sleeves and Pant Legs Out

Pull sleeves and pant legs out. In some cases you may need to turn some items inside out to help preserve embellished pieces or the design on a tshirt.

Some people also like to turn denim inside out to help the color from fading.

Button Buttons

Buttoning the buttons on your clothes before they go in the washing machine helps to keep the fabric from pulling and some buttons may snag other clothes.

Hook Bra Straps Together

Hook bras so they don’t hook and rip other delicate items. When washing delicate items, a lingerie or mesh bag can help keep them looking pretty for much longer. Labels may even recommend hand washing and laying flat to dry. I don’t put delicate items in the dryer, I lay flat to dry.

Zip Zippers

Zip up zippers prior to putting them in the wash as this will protect the teeth of the zipper and it will also protect the rest of the clothes in the wash since fabrics can snag easily on an open zipper. So zip up before putting anything in the washing machine.

Check Pockets

Check pockets prior to putting in the washing machine. I know I’ve left keys, change and rings in my pockets and these things can get out of the pockets and get stuck in the washing machine drum causing significant damage. Kids may leave chalk or color crayons in their pockets which can discolor and ruin other clothes in the wash.

Pre-Treat Stains

Pre-treat spots and stains.

Loading the Washing Machine

Whether you have a top loader or a front loader, it’s important – do not put too many clothes in the washing machine.

If there are too many clothes in the washing machine, they won’t get clean. Put just enough clothes in so you can still move them around with your hand. If your washing machine has settings for load size, choose the size that is appropriate for the amount of clothes you’ve put in.

Overloading the washing machine will reduce washing efficiency and cause fading and creasing and it can also cause excess wear on the washing machine itself.

Wash delicate items such as bras, hosiery and other lingerie in the “Delicates” or “Handwash” cycle with similar lightweight items.

When washing smaller, bulky items that do not fill the tub completely such as a throw rug, one or two pillows, or a couple stuffed toys add in a few towels for improved tumbling and spin performance.

When washing heavily soiled loads, it is very important to avoid overloading the washer to assure quality cleaning results.

What Water Temperature to Use When Washing Clothes

It’s important to use the water temperature specified for the type of laundry you are washing for optimal results.

Unless a detergent is specially formulated for cold water or the fabric label advises against it, a general rule is to always use warm water to wash clothing. Warm water helps to dissolve the detergent so it can get to work and clean your clothes.

Light clothing that will not fade should be washed on a hot or warm water temperature with a warm rinse cycle. Using a warm water rinse assists in keeping the colors bright and reduces dinginess.

Dark clothing should be washed in warm or cold water, (depending on the detergent you use). Cooler temperatures help to preserve the garments color and reduce fading.

• Hot/Cold – Whites and heavily soiled color-fast items
• Warm/Warm – Color-fast items.
• Warm/Cold – Moderately soiled color-fast items; most wrinkle free items
• Cold/Cold – Brightly colored, lightly soiled items; washable woolens

Washing Machine Fabric Settings

• Regular Wash – Combines a fast agitation with a fast spin cycle. Use for cotton, linens, towels, bedding.
• Hand Wash – Alternating periods of short and long soak and gentle spin speed. Use for items labeled hand wash.
• Delicate – Gentle agitation and gentle spin speed. Use for dress shirts/blouses, wool, nylons, sheer or lacy garments.
• Wrinkle Free – Reduced tumble pattern and spin speed to reduce wrinkling. Use for dress shirts/pants, wrinkle free clothing, poly/cotton blend clothing.
• Cotton Sturdy – Normal tumble pattern and high speed spin. Use for towels, jeans, sheets, linens, underwear, t-shirts.

Soil Level / Wash Options

• Heavy Soil – Use for cleaning heavily soiled loads.
• Normal Soil – Use for cleaning moderately soiled loads. This setting will be appropriate for most loads.
• Light Soil – Use for cleaning lightly soiled loads.
• Rinse – Choose this setting to rinse only and then spin.
• Spin – Spins only.

• Presoak – Adds 15 minutes of mostly soaking with minimal tumbling before the regular cycle. Can be selected with any cycle.
• Stain Cycle – Adds time to the wash and rinses for better stain removal. Automatically provides a fourth rinse.
• Extra Rinse – A fourth rinse at the end of the cycle to more completely remove laundry additives and perfumes.
• Max Extract – Use for jeans, towels, and bedding. Removes more water from loads during spin.

Add Detergent/Whitening Agents/Fabric Softener/Scent Booster

If you have a top loader, add detergent, whitening agents, fabric softener (for a more natural approach you can use vinegar or baking soda alone as a substitute for fabric softener) and scent boosters (if you choose to use them) according to the product instructions. Scent boosters are most often added directly to the wash tub. Essential oils can be used as well in place of store bought scent boosters.

If you have a front loader, you’ll also need to add these items according to the instructions, you’ll need to use a special type of detergent labeled “HE”. HE laundry detergent stands for high efficiency and doesn’t create as many suds. Too many suds can build up and the pressure can cause soapy water to leak from the door.

Laundry 101 Part 8 – Tips for Drying and Folding Laundry

The post Laundry 101: Part 7 – Tips for Washing Your Clothes appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Fabric Softeners

Fabric softener is a combination of chemicals that are used to make clothing softer and reduce static electricity.

I have long loved the “fresh from the dryer” smell of clean laundry, but I’m not a fan of adding commercial fabric softeners to my laundry. That goes for both the liquid softener you pour in the rinse cycle or the dryer sheets used when drying your clothes.

The older I have gotten, the more concerned I am with the chemicals in the products I use, and fabric softener is at the top of my list.

Whether the fabric softener is added as a liquid in the rinse cycle, or in the dryer as a dryer sheet, it ultimately covers every little bit of your clothing. Any chemicals present are in full contact with most every part of your body.

What’s In Fabric Softeners?

Here are just a few ingredients that can be found in fabric softener:

• Alpha-Terpineol: Central nervous system (CNS) problems, breathing problems, and can cause headaches.
• Benzyl Acetate: Linked to pancreatic cancer. Irritating to eyes and lungs.
• Limonene: Carcinogen. Irritating to eyes and skin.
• Linalool: CNS disorder and reduces heart rate.

There are more chemicals used in fabric softeners for fragrance, making your clothes feels soft, and for stopping static cling that are all worrisome and that can trigger reactions.

I decided a long time ago not to use fabric softeners. There are natural ways to soften your laundry and to stop static cling without covering your clothing with chemicals that have been linked to cancer, brain damage, breathing problems, and skin irritations.

Using Baking Soda or Washing Soda to Soften Clothes

Instead of using a fabric softener in the washing machine or dryer, you can add extra fabric softening and deodorizing by adding 1/2 cup of baking soda to the rinse cycle. Baking soda is a gentler alternative to commercial fabric softeners.

You can also use 1/2 cup of washing soda added to the wash load along with your regular detergent to soften the water by increasing the pH level. A higher pH helps the detergent do a better job for removing dirt and oil and also helps reduce mineral build up on your clothing.

Both baking soda and washing soda are alkaline substances; they boost the power of detergent, deodorize and help to keep white colors bright.

Instead of a Fabric Softener try Using White Vinegar

Plain white vinegar is mildly acidic and helps reduce the pH of the water. Adding one cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle helps remove soap residue and helps to keep clothes soft. That single cup will also help deodorize your laundry, reduce lint and associated static build up. And don’t worry it won’t smell like vinegar when it’s finished washing.

Using Wool Dryer Balls to Help Soften Clothes

Wool dryer balls are a very effective way to replace fabric softeners and to soften clothes and reduce static cling as they bounce around the inside of the dryer. They come in various sizes but are made of 100 percent wool and a nice option versus a dryer sheet. Just follow package instructions, toss in the recommend number of balls and dry.

Related Articles

Laundry 101 – Part 7 – Tips for Washing Laundry

The post Laundry 101: Part 6 – Using Fabric Softeners appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Laundry Detergents

When choosing a laundry detergent, check the appliance manufacturer manual for the best type of detergent to use in your washing machine.

Many new washing machines require HE (high efficiency) detergent in order to properly clean and rinse the soap out of your clothing. HE detergent is low sudsing and stops excess suds from forming in front loading washing machines. Other than HE detergent, the detergent you choose really depends on your own preferences; powder versus liquid, brand, scent and budget.

Use the Right Amount of Detergent, Don’t Overdo It

You’ll be much more satisfied with your washing machine, and the way your clothes turn out, if you read detergent instructions, you’ll find that more detergent is not better. If the detergent bottle says to use a half a capful for a regular load, then do not use a full cap of detergent.

The extra cleaning detergent you add will not get your clothes any cleaner. As a matter of fact it will be harder to rinse out of clothing. Detergent left on your clothing after they have been washed is ultimately just the same as dirt.

If you have a top loading washing machine that does not have a dispenser for detergent, let the tub start filling with water first then about half full add in the detergent so it can adequately mix then add in clothes.

Adjust Detergent for Water Hardness and Soil Level

It’s important to pay attention to the soil level, load size, and water hardness.

Soft Water

Soft water generates more suds naturally than the same amount of suds that would be generated in hard water. Avoid over sudsing which causes extended cycle times. If you know you have soft water, reduce the amount of detergent you use.

Hard Water

Hard water reduces detergent effectiveness which can result in poor cleaning of the clothes you are washing. Soften the water if needed to increase the power of the detergents used to wash clothes.

Soiled Clothing

Heavily soiled clothing should be allowed to pre-soak before washing as this allows stains and grime to loosen and be removed more easily. This can make a big difference in how they come clean.

Either fill the washing machine, a utility sink or bucket (depending on how many clothing items you are trying to get clean) with warm water, stain remover of your choice and detergent. Let soak overnight if you can.

Don’t Overload the Washing Machine

Don’t overload the washing machine! If you are overloading and packing clothes in tight, clothes do not have room to agitate which means they are not getting clean.

Overloading a washing machine also means that zippers, latches, buttons can rub up against another item of clothing and cause damage.

Overloading the washer can cause damage to the machine. With all the extra weight, it can strain the motor and you may have to have it repaired.

Front Loading Washing Machines and HE Detergents

Front loaders are designed to use less water (about 1/4 less) than that of regular top loading washing machines. It’s important to use HE (high efficiency) detergent in front load washing machines as the manufacturers recommend.

High efficiency detergents contain suds suppressors which reduce or eliminate suds without reducing the detergent effectiveness. When less suds are produced, the load tumbles more efficiently in a front loader and the cleaning results are maximized.

Using regular laundry detergent in a front loader will cause too many suds for the amount of water in the machine. Because front-loaders use less water in every load, this means the washing machine will have to work harder to get rid of all of that soapy sudsy water. Excess suds interfere with the agitation and tumbling action that is necessary to thoroughly remove dirt.

Some people try to use regular laundry soap in a front loader, but it’s not worth it. High efficiency means it cleans well with fewer suds. Using half the recommended amount of “regular” laundry soap is just not effective. The amount of suds may be cut down, but so is the cleaning power because you are using too little soap. It’s a catch-22 and is totally not worth it in the long run.

Just use HE detergents that are recommended for front loading washing machines and use the recommended amount to avoid soap build up.

Using Powdered Laundry Detergents

Generally powdered laundry detergents are more powerful than liquid detergent because bleach and detergent surfactants last longer and are more stable in powdered form.

It’s important to use warm or hot water when washing with powdered laundry detergent to completely dissolve it. Cold water can leave soap powder (that never dissolved) on your clothes and inside your washing machine and that residue is just waiting to start smelling everything up.

Using Liquid Laundry Detergents

Water temperature is not as much of a problem with liquid detergent because the detergent is already dissolved.

Liquid detergent is also beneficial if you have hard water. The high mineral content in hard water makes it more difficult for laundry soap to dissolve, so using a liquid detergent is the better choice.

Because liquid detergent is fairly concentrated, it’s just as easy to use too much. Liquid detergent also leaves a residue so it’s important to measure the amount you use in each load. The proper amount to use will vary depending on the load size and water level.

Look at the instructions on the back of the bottle and you’ll often find instructions to fill the cup just to the half way mark for a full wash load. I wonder how many people fill it 3/4 full or more without even knowing they are using 50 percent more than they should be?

Hopefully this reference on using laundry detergents has helped, now let’s move on to Laundry 101: Part 6, Using Fabric Softeners.

The post Laundry 101: Part 5 – Using Laundry Detergent appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Laundry Boosters and Water Softeners

Laundry boosters or water softeners are additives that soften and condition the water to help make detergent work more effectively, keep your clothes from looking dingy and help remove that powdery residue that washing in hard water can leave on your clothes.

Hard Water – What is It? and How to Deal with It?

Hard water is water that has high mineral content that causes problems with cleaning because it reduces detergent effectiveness. Soap does not lather well if the mineral content is high and that has a direct effect on how clean your clothes will be after washing.

More than 85 percent of homes in the U.S. have hard water. The mineral levels, ph levels and (of course) the smell and taste of water are subject to various factors. Water that comes from a well, in particular can have very high levels of minerals and odors that cannot be buffered with water softeners or filtered out.

Hard water causes soap scum to form instead of the sudsy lather you need to get your clothes clean. Specifically, calcium and magnesium combined with sodium in the detergent to form a sticky solid that is difficult to rinse and adheres to all surfaces: clothing, the washing machine, and even in plumbing as lime scale build up.

Water softeners and laundry boosters reduce hard water’s adverse effects; reducing the formation of soap scum and increasing the effectiveness of the detergent.

Many detergents already contain water softeners, but it’s frequently not enough to counteract heavy mineral levels in the home’s water supply.

Water softeners work by removing calcium and magnesium ions, and replacing them with sodium or potassium ions. This exchange results in a physical softening that you can actually feel, the water literally becomes softer to the touch.

Typical Water Softeners and Laundry Boosters

• Baking Soda
• Washing Soda
• Borax

The chemistry may be elemental, but if your clothing looks dingy and feels stiff you may not have a clue where to start. Let’s review how to fix your hard water problems and super charge your detergent.

Using Baking Soda as a Water Softener

Baking soda is a salt called sodium bicarbonate. It’s most commonly used in baking as a leavening ingredient. Baking soda is also a deodorizer and is a safe and natural ingredient used for cleaning in many homes today.

Sodium bicarbonate is a excellent surfactant and a water softener. The addition of baking soda to the wash load softens hard water by adding sodium which competes with the magnesium and calcium ions present in hard water. The additional sodium stops magnesium and calcium from binding with the detergent, and so allows the detergent to lather and clean more effectively.

Baking soda is similar to washing soda, but they are not the same. Washing soda is caustic and can cause burns. Baking soda is safe, or at least as safe as a kitchen food staple can be. Baking soda won’t burn you and you don’t need to wear gloves or eye protection when using it.

I’m sure you can see where I’m going on this, I use baking soda to soften the water and boost my laundry detergent. I don’t have anything against washing soda but if I have two choices and the result is the same: I pick the safest one, and that’s baking soda.

How to Use Baking Soda in the Laundry

You can find baking soda in the baking section at the grocery store, Arm and Hammer is one of many other brands. Simply add 1 cup of baking soda along with your regular detergent to soften water and increase detergent effectiveness.

Baking soda will:

• Naturally soften hard water   
• Improves the cleaning power of detergent
• Removes oil and grease
• Reduces hard water deposits
• Deodorizes

Using Washing Soda (Soda Ash) to Soften Water

Washing soda or soda ash is sodium carbonate which is a salt of carbonic acid. Washing soda comes in a powder form which comes from plant ashes (this is why it’s called soda ash) and it can also be made from sodium chloride a.k.a. table salt.

Washing soda is similar to baking soda, but they are not interchangeable. Baking soda is a salt called sodium bicarbonate used in food preparation, and washing soda is 2 times stronger than baking soda and cannot be used in food preparation. It is used primarily as a water softener for washing laundry.

Washing soda neutralizes acid, raises water pH levels and is an effective laundry booster and water softener. Washing soda works to soften hard water by adding sodium that competes with magnesium and calcium ions present in hard water.

Washing soda is extremely alkaline. It has a pH level of 11. This means that it is caustic and it can burn your skin or eyes. Use gloves and protective eye wear when using it. Don’t pour washing soda directly on laundry in the washing machine tub. Pre-dissolve the washing soda along with the laundry detergent in the wash water before adding clothes.

How to Use Washing Soda in the Laundry

You can find washing soda in the laundry section of the grocery store, one brand that comes to mind is Arm and Hammer. Add 1/2 cup of washing soda along with your detergent as the washing machine is filling with water so it may dissolve. It will help to soften water and improve your detergents effectiveness.

Washing soda will:

• Naturally softens hard water
• Improves the cleaning power of detergent
• Removes oil and grease
• Reduces hard water deposits
• Deodorizes
• Removes wax
• Removes lipstick

Using Borax to Soften Water in the Washing Machine

I love Borax. It’s inexpensive, and a natural laundry booster.

Borax is a natural mineral (sodium borate, sodium tetraborate, or disodium tetraborate) and a salt of boric acid. Borax is found deep underground with clay and other substances. It is a white powder that dissolves easily in water.

Borax is safe enough for baby clothes and delicate and strong enough to get rid of tough stains like grease and oil as well as those annoying grass stains that used to ruin my kid’s jeans.

Borax is alkaline and has a pH of 9.5. It softens water a little but its “extra special powers” are in supercharging your detergent. The pH level assists in removing stains, and borax actually breaks down into oxygen bleach which helps keep clothes bright and white. Borax is safe to use with additional chlorine or oxygen bleach as well.

How to Use Borax in the Laundry

You can find borax on grocery store shelves next to the laundry detergent. One brand that comes to mind is called 20 Mule Team.

Borax is a laundry detergent booster. Add 1/2 cup of borax along with detergent to your wash load to help to soften water and improve your detergent effectiveness.

Borax will:

• Naturally softens hard water
• Improves the cleaning power of detergent
• Helps to remove stains
• Helps to remove odor

These are a few natural ways to help soften the water used to wash your clothes and to boost your regular laundry detergents effectiveness.

Related Articles:

Laundry 101: Part 5, How to Use Laundry Detergent

The post Laundry 101: Part 4 – Laundry Boosters and Water Softeners appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You about Getting Your Clothes White

Brightening white clothing is a little more than dumping a bunch of bleach in the wash. Bleach works well to brighten whites, and works great on cotton, but it can also ruin your clothes if not used properly.

Chlorine bleach is highly alkaline, and an oxidizer. Bleach is corrosive to many things- skin, eyes, and organic material. It reacts chemically with some other common cleaners, as well. Because of those risks I avoid chlorine bleach unless it’s really needed and it’s the only product that will do. (In some cases, it’s the best product to use.)

Whites should be separated from colors prior to washing to prevent color issues. There are several methods for achieving whiter whites.

It’s important to know the difference between all the brighteners, and use whatever is best and what is effective for the clothing you are washing.

Brighten Whites Using Chlorine Bleach

Liquid chlorine bleach in the bottle is a 5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite solution. Chlorine bleach is an oxidizer that removes many stains from cotton fabric and does a very nice job brightening whites. Chlorine bleach kills germs, bacteria, viruses, disinfects, sanitizes, and removes mold, mildew and odors.

You might find it interesting to know that bleach does not remove stains; it only removes the color of the stain. So technically, the stain solids may remain, you just can’t see it.

Chlorine bleach is a strong cleaning chemical and it should be used carefully.

• As I mentioned earlier, bleach is highly corrosive, so avoid contact with eyes, skin and mucus membranes.
• Work in a well-ventilated area, avoid breathing fumes. 
• Avoid contact with metal. Bleach will permanently discolor stainless steel, metal spoons or containers.
• Don’t use bleach on fabrics made of silk, wool, spandex, urethane or polyurethane, permanent-press fabrics, acetate, polypropylene foam, flame retardant fabrics or rubber.
• Never pour full-strength bleach into a clothes-filled washer.
• Never mix bleach with ammonia which will result in the formation of toxic fumes.
• Repeated use of chlorine bleach will weaken cellulose or cotton/ramie/linen fibers.
• Repeated use of chlorine bleach will cause yellowing of fabrics.
• Always check for color fastness first, following the instructions on the container, before using bleach.
• Read and follow care instructions and any warnings on the fabric care label regarding the use of bleach.
• Bleach starts to degrade after the bottle is opened. Replace after 6 months of opening for best results.

How to Use Chlorine Bleach

Bleach solutions need to be made fresh daily. Once diluted, bleach breaks down quickly-mainly into salt and water. (That’s the sodium part in bleach’s chemical name- sodium hypochlorite)

Chlorine bleach works best with cotton, ramie and linen whites in a hot or warm wash.

• Add chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment, filling to the top of the max fill line. Do not overfill.
• If your machine does not have a bleach compartment add 1/2 to 3/4 cup to the washer water, mixing well, before adding clothes.
• Launder as directed.
• Rinse thoroughly.
• If results are not what you expected (stain has not lightened, etc.), further investigate appropriate cleaning solution to use to remove the stain.

IMPORTANT: NEVER MIX AMMONIA WITH CHLORINE BLEACH. A TOXIC GAS WILL RESULT DUE TO A CHEMICAL REACTION.

Brightening Whites Using Oxygen Cleaners

Oxygen cleaners (like oxy-clean) are similar to hydrogen peroxide, but in a powder form. They brighten clothing without the corrosive effects of chlorine bleach.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, usually adding 1 cup per load in warm or hot water to revive even the most dingy white shirt.

Do not pour color-safe bleach into the bleach compartment. Add color-safe, non-chlorine bleach solutions to the detergent compartment, or where your manufacturer recommends powder should be added to your machine.

How to Brighten Whites Using Borax

To use Borax in the wash, add one-half cup of borax to each load to boost the cleaning power of the regular detergent. Add directly to the washing machine drum.

Using Borax as a Presoak to Whiten Dingy Whites

To whiten dingy whites, using a clean large plastic bin (I have one just for this purpose), add one-half cup of borax to every gallon of water. Add whites and allow them to soak for at least one hour (depending on what the item looks like, a longer soak may be better). Launder as usual.

Now that you know how to brighten whites, let’s move on to Laundry 101: Part 4, Laundry Boosters and Water Softeners

The post Laundry 101: Part 3 – Brightening Whites appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

What Mom Didn’t Tell You about Removing Stains

After many years of cleaning, we’ve learned some important things about the cleaners we use, and this impacts how we clean laundry and remove stains.

There’s nothing really complex or earth-shattering about it. But why on earth should getting laundry clean and removing stains be hard? In fact, I’ve got it all simplified and laid it out in easy steps. It should have never been so complicated to start with.

In Laundry 101 Part 1, we talked about stains, the different stain types and some stain removal methods. But that was just a part of it and here we continue on with stains and the variety of products you can use to remove them.

Buy and Use the Basic Cleaners

I don’t buy dishwashing detergent that contains bleach or laundry detergent that contains oxygen bleach. Adding extra chemicals without having the need to use them is not beneficial and can also be damaging in the long run. It also complicates things in the event you want to use a cleaner for something else. As an example: dishwashing detergent does not need bleach to start with. It’s excessive and one more chemical in your environment that’s going down the drain.

Use Your Cleaners with a Purpose in Mind

The flip side of my point above is to use the products specific to your need. When you need brightening and lightening, pull out the cleaners you need and use them. It’s less wasteful, less toxic to you and less damaging to your clothing. Bleach for example, degrades plastic gaskets, fades clothing, and is destructive to fabric.

Use as Little Cleaning Solution as Possible to Get the Job Done

Don’t throw a bunch of cleaners at a problem without knowing what you are doing. More is not always better and it’s certainly not the case when cleaning your clothes or removing stains.

Use the Gentlest Method to Remove a Stain as Possible

You don’t need to use a bulldozer when a shovel will do, and that goes for all stains.

Do Not Underestimate the Power of Simple and Natural Methods

I don’t have all of the non-toxic cleaners listed, but many of the simple and natural methods to clean, such as vinegar, baking soda, borax, lemon juice, and even sunlight and fresh air might be truly the best and most effective way to get something clean. It’s easy to be brain washed into thinking we need to buy some expensive specialty cleaning solution if we don’t have the experience to know what else works.

And last but not least…

Read the Manual, Label or Product Instructions. No Exceptions.

I’ve missed out on some valuable information that would have saved me a lot of trouble if I only read a label. I’ve learned the hard way, but I did learn.

Stain Sticks and Sprays

I have to admit I don’t typically buy specialty stain removers and our clothes are not stained. I get great results using the basic cleaning products I already have at home. It’s not only cheaper, but it’s more efficient as well.

Having a stain stick or spray in case of emergencies might be a good idea in your home, but you don’t have to use all those stain sticks, sprays and magic elixirs, despite what the advertisements say. Everything you need to remove stains is probably listed right here.

There are a variety of commercial spot removers on the market, usually in the form of a spray or sticks. You apply the stain remover to the stain, wait for the time directed, and then wash.

If you go this route there’s not a lot more that needs to be said, other than to check the product instructions to see if the stain remover was meant to remove the type of stain you are working on.

Different Stains, Different Cleaning Solutions

Grease, coffee, blood, rust, grass or inks all need different cleaning solutions. A lot of frustration can be avoided if you make sure that the stain stick you’re using is meant to remove the stain you’re working on. Removing stains is not a “one size fits all” type of problem.

Making Your Own Stain Stick

If you’re the crafty type, you can make your own stain stick, laundry detergent and even bar soap. The website Frugally Sustainable published a detailed recipe with some easy instructions on how to make your own stain stick. I really like the idea because you control the ingredients, chemicals and scent, if you even choose to use any scent at all. Adding essential oils, like lavender or rosemary makes it really appealing to me, I love essential oils.

The ingredients are very basic. And don’t be afraid of the lye and lard in the recipe. Soap has been made this way for centuries. It’s an age-old recipe.

Homemade Laundry Stain Stick

• 2 pounds lard
• 4.39 ounces lye
• 10 ounces water
• 1 ounce eucalyptus essential oils, optional
• 1/2 ounce lemon essential oils, optional

If you are interested in making your own stain stick or laundry soap, the frugally sustainable web site has the complete instructions for making homemade soap.

But my point is that a stain stick is really just concentrated laundry detergent, but in a different form. Save your money. Your laundry detergent, dish soap or shampoo is a concentrate that can work just as well as a stain stick. Hydrogen peroxide, oxygen bleach, or enzyme products can be used as needed depending on the specific stain you are working on. That’s just about all you need.

Using Laundry Detergent or Dish Soap to Remove Stains

Laundry detergent and dish soap are what I reach for to remove grease, oil, and many food stains.

They are the best pre-treatment items for grease and oil. After all, soap and detergent are made to cut grease, remove oil, dirt and grime from your laundry and dishes. It makes perfect sense that they’re wonderful stain removers too, doesn’t it?

Avoid using detergents that have chlorine or oxygen bleach in them to pre-treat a stain. Chlorine bleach may discolor your clothing, and though oxygen bleach is color safe, if the rest of the garment is somewhat dingy, there’s a possibility the oxygen bleach may lighten the appearance slightly and that would be a problem too. I don’t know of any laundry detergents that have chlorine bleach in them, but some have oxygen bleach. I’ve seen some dish soaps that contain chlorine bleach, so just be careful and double check before using them.

Treating a Stain with Detergent and or Dish Soap

1. Rinse the stain in lukewarm/warm water to remove any solids
2. Do not use hot water as you want to avoid spreading the stain further
3. Pour a little of the concentrated laundry/dish soap right on the stain
4. Rub in gently with your fingers
5. Let it sit for about 30 minutes
6. Repeat as necessary
7. Launder according to the fabric and detergent instructions
8. Any remaining stain might require a different cleaning solution

Using straight laundry detergent to remove stains has saved me a ton of money.

If you’ve caught it quickly enough, and the grimy dirt is removed there’s a good chance the stain will be removed too.

Using Hydrogen Peroxide/Oxygen Bleach to Remove Stains

I love using hydrogen peroxide to remove stains. It’s the cleaning solution I use to remove coffee stains without damaging fabric. Hydrogen peroxide has all the benefits of using chlorine bleach without the risks.

Hydrogen peroxide is very similar to water- it’s just missing an atom or so. But because it’s an oxidizer, it lightens, brightens and removes stains. The bleaching action is called “redox” which is short for reduction-oxidization. That’s the same way chlorine bleach works to remove stains.

Hydrogen peroxide converts to water when exposed to sunlight, which is nice because it means it leaves no residue, but that also means it won’t work if you are trying to remove a stain and it’s being exposed to sunlight at the time you are working on it. (This is why hydrogen peroxide comes in a dark brown bottle.) You can cover it with a towel, dishcloth, etc if needed.

If you haven’t used hydrogen peroxide and are worried about color-fastness, test in an inconspicuous place first.

Hydrogen peroxide helps to remove these kinds of stains:

• Blood stains
• Coffee stains
• Rust stains
• Iron stains
• Red wine stains
• Fruit Juice stains
• Berry stains

Removing Stains with Hydrogen Peroxide

1. Pour regular 3 percent hydrogen peroxide on the stain
2. Check in 1 hour
3. Apply more hydrogen peroxide if needed
4. Let it sit for 30 minutes
5. Let air dry completely
6. Repeat if necessary

If you need to remove a stain that’s in direct sunlight (like on the carpet or similar):

1. Follow the cleaning steps (above)
2. After you have applied the hydrogen peroxide
3. Cover the stain with a sheet of plastic wrap
4. Put a towel on top to shield the stain from the sun
5. Check in 1 hour
6. Apply more hydrogen peroxide if needed
7. Cover the stain with the plastic and towel again
8. Check after 30 minutes
9. Let air dry completely
10. Repeat if necessary

The plastic wrap will stop the towel from soaking up the hydrogen peroxide, and the hydrogen peroxide will happily continue to work on the stain in the dark!

I don’t have to worry about direct sun exposure, so I usually lay the stained item flat on my washing machine, and pour the hydrogen peroxide right on the top of the stain. It’s easy to keep track of the progress, and when the stain is gone, I just toss my garment in the washing machine.

Using Oxygen Bleach to Remove Stains

Oxygen bleach (like oxyclean) is NOT hydrogen peroxide, but the effects are the same. Hydrogen peroxide is a liquid, and oxygen bleach is sodium percarbonate or sodium perborate. These chemicals are oxidizers that are stable in a powder form.

When sodium percarbonate or sodium perborate is combined with water, oxygen is released. This chemical reaction removes the stain, breaks up grime and brightens the fabric.

The cleaning and bleaching reaction occurs at the time the powder is mixed with water, so you can’t mix the solution ahead of time and put it in a spray bottle to use later (just in case you were thinking of doing that).

Because there are mineral solids in oxygen bleach, there will be a residue from the powder. That powder will need to be completely rinsed and removed after using it.

Using Rubbing Alcohol (Isopropyl Alcohol) to Remove Stains

Rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol) or methylated spirits (Denatured alcohol) are great all-purpose spot removers.

Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly and is fairly non-toxic. Rubbing alcohol is a solvent and a cleaning fluid. Alcohol helps to dissolve (make soluble) many different types of stains, including oil, and then you can wash or rinse it away.

Rubbing alcohol is a solvent and works to remove:

• Ground in grass stains
• Water based ink stains
• Permanent marker ink stains
• Ballpoint pen ink stains
• Chewing gum
• Pencil lead
• Mustard stains
• Shoe polish stains
• Paint stains
• Varnish stains
• Hair dye stains
• Black heel marks
• Red wine stains
• Residual glue from some sticky labels

Removing Stains with Rubbing Alcohol

1. Place a clean dry cloth under the stained fabric
2. Dab rubbing alcohol onto the stain
3. Blot with a clean dry cloth
4. Dab, blot, dab, blot, dab, blot until no stain remains
5. Add a little laundry detergent on top of the stain
6. Let sit for 15 minutes
7. Wash in the hottest water that is safe for the fabric
8. Check the stain before you put it in the dryer
9. If any stain remains, repeat step 1

Ammonia and Stain Removal

Ammonia smells to high heaven, but it works and has been used for centuries as a cleaner but don’t worry; the smell should be gone when your wash load is complete.

Ammonia works by saponification to remove greasy oil stains- That is: it chemically converts the stain to soap, and then the stain will be washed away. Other types of stains are dissolved due to the high alkalinity of the cleaning solution.

CAUTION: Never mix ammonia with bleach or with products that contain chlorine bleach.

Ammonia and bleach combined together will produce a hazardous gas. Chlorine gas and chloramines are formed, and those most certainly are not a joke. Chlorine gas can cause severe lung damage and can be life threatening.

Personally, I might think twice about letting bleach and ammonia sit next to each other on the shelf. Am I over reacting? Possibly but it’s better to be safe than sorry. It may also be a good idea to wear a mask and gloves when using ammonia and use in well ventilated area.

In all honesty I’ve been unfortunate enough to breathe chlorine gas. It took my breath away. Call me paranoid, but I most definitely do not want to repeat that experience ever again.

Ammonia helps to remove these stains:

• Perspiration stains
• Set in blood stains
• Urine stains (CLOTHING STAINS ONLY-Don’t use it on carpet)
• Pencil marks
• Paint stains
• Grease stains

Removing stains with ammonia:

1. Saturate the stain with a 50/50 solution of ammonia and water
2. Massage in gently
3. Let sit for 30 minutes
4. Launder as usual

Removing heavy duty stains with Ammonia

Make a cleaning solution consisting of:

• 1 cup of warm water
• 1/2 cup of ammonia
• 1/2 cup laundry detergent

Spray the solution on the stain and let it sit for 30 minutes. Then rinse and wash as usual.

IMPORTANT: NEVER MIX AMMONIA WITH CHLORINE BLEACH. A TOXIC GAS WILL RESULT DUE TO A CHEMICAL REACTION. I think it’s worth saying this again, just in case if you didn’t pay attention to my first warning!

Using Club Soda as a Stain Remover

Club soda is a fun and effective stain remover (I know, I’m a little weird). The effervescent bubbles help to bring the stain to the surface of the fabric where it can be simply blotted and washed away. Club soda is an excellent stain remover for red wine stains. The trick is to get to it fast.

If red or white wine have stained your clothing:

1. Pour 1/4 cup of club soda on the spilled wine
2. Blot, blot, blot to remove the residue.
3. Pour 1/4 more cup of club soda on the spilled wine
4. Blot, blot, blot to remove the rest of residue
5. Launder the garment as usual

Denture Cleaning Tablets Can Help Remove Stains

Denture cleaning tablets are acidic, and the acid helps to remove stains from many things. Coffee stains, tomato sauce, or any other acid based stain can be removed using denture cleaners. It’s also great for removing stains from cotton whites and linens.

Denture cleaning tablets help to remove these stains:

• Coffee stains
• Tea stains
• Food dye stains
• Perspiration Stains
• Mustard stains
• Tomato based stains

Removing stains with denture cleaning tablets:

1. Put the denture cleaner tablets in a glass
2. Add water and let the tablets dissolve completely
3. Pour on the stain and massage in gently
4. Let sit for 30 minutes
5. Launder as usual
6. If the stain remains after washing, go back to step 1 and repeat.
7. Do not dry your stained item in the dryer until the stain is completely gone.

Using Glycerin for Stain Removal

Glycerin is a byproduct of soap making (saponification) and is a combination of fat and oils.

Glycerin is an excellent solvent and is useful in softening old or set stains. Because it is a byproduct of soap, it’s an excellent cleaner and degreaser. It helps to loosen makeup, lipstick, ink and shoe polish stains.

Glycerin helps to remove these stains:

• Juice stains
• Ketchup
• Mustard
• BBQ sauces
• Coffee
• Self-tanning lotion
• Lipstick
• Ink
• Marker

Recipe for glycerin stain remover:

To make an excellent glycerin stain remover, mix 1 part glycerin to 2 parts water and add some mild detergent for extra cleaning and degreasing power:

• 2 tablespoons liquid dish detergent (like Dawn)
• 1 cup glycerin
• 2 cups water

Removing Stains with Glycerin

1. Spray or pour a small amount of the glycerin cleaning solution right on the stain
2. Massage it in gently
3. Let sit for 30-60 minutes
4. Launder as usual

Shaving Cream Can Help in the Stain Removal Process

Shaving cream is not just for removing hair! Made from soap, oil, surfactant, water and alcohol, shaving cream is both easy to use and very effective for removing many greasy, oily clothing stains.

Removing fabric stains with shaving cream:

1. Work a squirt of shaving cream with your fingertips into dampened fabric
2. Let it sit about 30 minutes
3. Wash as usual

Shaving cream is also a good stain remover for carpet stains:

1. Squirt the shaving cream on the stain
2. Work it gently into the carpet
3. Let it sit undisturbed for 30 minutes
4. Use a clean rag dampened with plain water and dab, dab, dab the stain away

Protein Enzymes and Meat Tenderizer are Effective Stain Removers

Meat tenderizers are enzymes that tenderize meat by breaking down and dissolving tough fibers. Enzymes are effective stain removers for protein based stains:

• Milk
• Chocolate milk
• Ice cream
• Blood
• Baby food
• Gravy
• Eggs
• Meat
• Urine

Luckily for us, the natural enzymes we buy for meat tenderizer are easy, safe, plant based and do a great job removing stains. To use a meat tenderizer as a protein stain remover, find one that does not contain additional seasonings like garlic and salt. Just straight meat tenderizer.

Look for either active ingredient, both of these will work:

• Bromelain: a protease enzyme that comes from the stems of pineapple plants and is the active ingredient in Mccormick’s Unseasoned Meat Tenderizer.
• Papain: a protease enzyme that comes from papayas and is the active ingredient in Adolph’s Meat Tenderizer.

Now let’s take a look at Laundry 101 Part 3 – Brightening Whites

The post Laundry 101: Part 2 – Removing Stains – Different Stains, Different Cleaning Solution appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Everything Your Mom Didn’t Tell You About Stains

No matter how hard you try to keep up with it, the fact is there will always be dirty laundry piling up in your home. It’s a never ending race against time.

Most of us don’t enjoy doing laundry; washing, drying or folding! I get it, I’m right there with you. Life is busy but clothes just need to be clean.

Laundry may be your least favorite job in the entire house, but it’s worse if you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s worse even still if you ruin your clothes.

Is there a laundry monster? Yes. Can you tame the laundry monster? Yes you can!

Cleaning your clothing does not need to be difficult and we’ve got all the tips and tricks to get your clothes clean and stain free.

Let’s go over everything you ever wanted to know about washing your clothes but were afraid to ask.

The Laundry Problem

Washing machines are built to clean clothes and rinse them thoroughly when used correctly. Too much or too little of anything is a problem when cleaning clothing.

There are 6 things that you need to understand to clean your clothes properly:

1. Water quality and quantity: detergent boosters, water softeners and load size.
2. Water temperature: use the right temperature for the job.
3. Cleaning agents: use the right detergent and the right amount.
4. Rinsing and fabric softening agents: remove all traces of soap and reduce static build up.
5. Using color brighteners: keeping your whites, white.
6. Removing stains: removing stains completely and without damaging fabric.

Getting any one of these wrong can cause all sorts of problems. Besides having clothes that aren’t clean or smell bad, Soap residue and mineral build up can even cause your washing machine to stink or malfunction.

• Poor soil removal
• Odors on clothing
• Odors in washing machine
• Color fading
• Dingy whites
• Inadequate absorption capacity (especially cloth diapers and cotton towels)
• Contact dermatitis
• Skin allergies

I could go on, but I think you get the point. It’s NOT a good thing!

Stains Can Be Difficult to Remove Even for Experts

Most novice cleaners will try to use hot water and throw all sorts of stain removers on the stain.

You might get lucky and remove the stain, but many times you won’t. There are just a few rules to follow when removing stains and if you know the tricks, stains won’t have much of a chance of sticking around.

• Act quickly
• Know what the stain is made from
• Know the cleaners that the fabric can withstand
• Know the stain removal products and why you choose one product over another
• Know the proper procedures for removing the stain from the fabric
• Don’t mix cleaning products
• Don’t dry the garment in the dryer until the stain is gone
• Be gentle
• Be patient

So what’s the Deal with Stains and Stain Removers?

When dealing with extra soiled or stained clothing, a laundry booster or stain remover adds some extra punch to help get laundry clean.

The way to remove stains varies depending on what the stain is made of, and what material has been stained.

The experts know that because a stain can have many ingredients to it, each stain might require multiple methods and cleaners to remove it completely.

An example is spaghetti sauce: The red tomato sauce and the grease will need different cleaners. There’s not a “one-size fits all” cleaning solution in the land of stain removal.

Basic Stain Categories

To determine how to remove a stain, you need to find out what the stain is made of. The groups are broken into several types: Organic, non-organic, pigments and dyes, protein, plant, oil, ink and permanent marker.

Many stains fit into multiple categories.

Organic Stains

Organic stains are biological like: milk, blood, egg, urine. Rinse with cold water, treat with enzymes or degreaser and launder in cold water. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed to remove remaining stain.

Non-Organic Stains

Non-organic stains are not of human, animal or plant origin such as: rust, mineral, makeup, ink, wax. Remove with acids (white vinegar or lemon juice, or rust remover.)

Pigment and Dye Stains

Pigment and dye stains consist of: wine, grass, berry stains. Remove stain with detergent, solvent, alkaline cleaner. Rubbing alcohol is effective for grass stains. Hot water removes berry stains. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed.

Protein Stains

Protein stains come from: milk, blood, egg, perspiration, any of animal or human origin. Rinse with cold water, treat with enzymes or degreaser and launder in cold water. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed to remove remaining stain.

Plant Based Stains

Plant based stains such as: grass, coffee, tea, wine, juice. Remove with enzyme, solvents, or degreaser. Use hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach if needed.

Greasy Stains

Greasy stains are – well – grease stains such as: butter, oil and the like. Degrease with a detergent and pretreat with a spray or stick.

Ink and Marker Stains

Ink and marker stains are just what it sounds like: ballpoint ink, drawing ink, felt tip ink. Remove with solvents.

Basic Methods of Stain Removal

The stain and the item the stain is on must be considered. Choose a removal method and cleaning solution that works for the stain that won’t damage the fabric.

• Dissolve it (solvents/solvency)
• Degrease it (detergents/detergency)
• Convert it (soap/saponification)
• Bleach it (redox/reduction-oxidation)
• Break it (enzymes/digestion)

Basic Guidelines to Follow when Removing Stains

Treat the Stain Gently, Be Patient and Don’t Rub or Scrub

It may often take more than one application of a stain remover to completely remove a stain.

Blot Gently with a Clean Towel

It’s effective and will reduce the chance of damaging your stained item.

Remove Stains As Soon As you Find Them

The longer a stain sits, the harder it is to remove. Stains can become permanent over time due to a chemical reaction with the fabric.

When in Doubt Do Not Use Heat

Do not try to remove the stain with hot water, or dry it in the dryer, unless you are specifically directed to. If you don’t know what to use, use cold or lukewarm water right from the tap. Hot water or drying the clothing in the dryer will set many stains and make it much more difficult, if not impossible to remove completely.

Like Removes Like

When choosing your stain remover, select the solution based on the pH of its ingredients. You can best remember this as “like removes like”. That means that stains from acids become soluble and are best removed with another acid. Base or alkaline stains become soluble and are removed with other alkaline bases.

Stains are Made of Multiple Ingredients

What works for one stain might not work for another seemingly similar stain. (Of course!)

Try One Cleaning Solution at a Time

If one stain remover doesn’t work, rinse the item completely before trying another. Don’t mix chemicals.

Check the Stain after Washing

Set the garment aside for more treatment if the stain remains after you have tried to remove it.

Do Not Put Stained Clothing in the Dryer

We say this all the time: “Heat may set the stain permanently. Only dry the clothing in the dryer when the stain is completely gone”.

CAUTION: If you use products that are common to have in the home, they are not inherently safe. Cleaning products are chemicals that react to other chemicals, just like all chemicals do. Always try one cleaning solution by itself and rinse completely before trying another cleaning solution.

Laundry 101 Part 2 – Stain Removal Methods Continued

The post Laundry 101: Part 1 – Stains – Stain Types and Removal Methods appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

Natural, Clean and Earth Friendly Laundry Products.

Is Your Skin Sensitive to Laundry Products?

Before I get down to my favorite laundry products, let me briefly tell you a something that happened to my daugther. My daughter went through a period of having extremely sensitive skin. She would break out with random skin rashes, hives, and other breakouts. In the beginning, we weren’t really sure what the cause was.

We did the kind of things you’d typically do in a situation such as this like going to the dermatologist, tried specialty skin care products, we tried eliminating certain foods and fabrics, we changed our laundry products and so on.

When we took my daughter to the dermatologist, she was prescribed a high strength corto steroid cream. This kind of cream breaks down collagen and can only be used for 10 days at a time. I had to question, if it’s such a strong product, why would we want to put that on her skin?

We eliminated synthetic fabrics which don’t breathe as well as natural fibers, we had her do an eliminate diet where we eliminated certain foods for a few weeks then reintroduced them to her diet, she changed the laundry products she used and she purchased more natural and organic skin care products.

Despite all she tried, her skin was still breaking out with rashes and hives.

The Aha Moment

In our house, for the most part, we each do our own laundry. The aha moment for me came when I had to fold my daughters laundry and I noticed a heavy fabric softener residue on the towels she washed. When she came home I asked her how much she was adding to her laundry – turns out it was quite a lot.

Because fabric softeners are loaded with chemicals, we now believed this could be the problem behind her skin condition, especially because she has sensitive skin. Not only can these products leave residue on your laundry but your skin as well.

What Did We Do and What Do We Use?

Now we have a plan. We started eliminating laundry products that can leave behind a chemical residue on washed items. We resolved to use safe and natural products that would clean just as well and leave our clothing and linens soft without the use of all those chemicals.

I know when you have a busy household how easy it is to grab laundry products off the grocery store shelf without much thought but if you have someone in the family, like my daughter, who has sensitive skin, maybe a more natural solution will work for you as well.

We started making our laundry soap, we also used baking soda, white vinegar and other natural products to get our laundry chemically free and clean.

Making Powdered Laundry Detergent or (Soap)

Making your own laundry low sudsing soap aka detergent is rewarding in many ways and you only need a few ingredients. Homemade laundry soap decreases the exposure to all those unwanted chemicals and effectively cleans clothing.

Ingredients

• 3 – 5 ounce bars Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Bar Soap (I use the Lavender)
• 6 cups Washing Soda
• Lavender Essential Oil or Citrus Essential Oil (optional)

Making the Laundry Soap

Add the following to a food processor:

1. Castile soap cut into 1/2 inch pieces.
2. Washing soda.
3. Add 10 drops essential oil if you use unscented soap and want a light scent.
4. Blend to a fine powder.
5. Pour into clean, airtight container.

If you don’t have a food processor, you can use a microplane shredder for the castile soap then mix really good into the washing soda. It is best for HE washers if the soap is a fine powder.

How to Use

Start filling the washer with water, for medium loads add 2 tablespoons and 3 tablespoons for a large load. If you wash in cold water, dissolve the laundry soap in hot water first (can use a glass measuring cup then stir in hot water)

If you choose not to make your own laundry detergent there are some good options for those with sensitive skin. Some are Method Laundry Detergent, Nellie’s Laundry Soda, Purex, and Seventh Generation brands.

Other Natural Options to Use in the Laundry

Below are other natural options to use when washing and drying clothes and for cleaning the washing machine. If you opt out of making your own laundry soap and like the brand you are currently using, the following items can be added to help boost what you currently use.

Using White Vinegar in the Wash

I can’t sing enough praises about white vinegar and its many uses. In the wash, white vinegar can be used to naturally remove static cling and soften laundry.

To use white vinegar for static cling and as a fabric softener, add 1/2 cup to the rinse cycle. If you have hard water, vinegar can help prevent buildup in the washer.

Using Baking Soda in the Wash

As mentioned above, baking soda and washing soda are similar. Baking soda is an excellent natural deodorizer stopping odors caused by bacteria.

Baking soda also helps stabilize the waters pH levels and soften the water. This helps make your laundry detergent more effective. Just add 1/2 cup along with regular detergent.

Do White Vinegar and Baking Soda Really Work Together?

White vinegar and baking soda both have many useful cleaning purposes and they are both natural cleaning agents but together – they pretty much cancel each other out. When mixed together, in the end, you end up with pretty much salty tasting water.

I know there are many cleaning recipes on the Internet that say to mix these two ingredients together for cleaning odors but it really doesn’t do anything useful. This being said –

Together they don’t make a good cleaning agent, but used together, they can dislodge hair and residue buildup in a drain. That’s where the fizzy fun and the bubbly reaction come into play.

Using Washing Soda When Washing Clothes

Washing soda (sodium carbonate) is similar to baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) only washing soda is more powerful.

When added to regular detergent (if you don’t make the recipe above), washing soda (alkaline) is a great booster for getting clothes cleaner, softening the water and cutting through grease.

• Use 1/2 cup to a regular load of laundry to super charge the detergent.
• For grease and food stains (common in many homes), mix 4 tablespoons with water to make a thin paste. Dampen stained area and rub the paste into the stain.

Washing soda is caustic and gloves should be worn while mixing. Don’t use on delicate fabrics or wool. When used repeatedly over time, washing soda could fade clothing.

Using Borax in the Wash

The 20 Mule kind. Borax (alkaline) is a natural mineral, like the other items we mention, Borax is a great way to add extra cleaning power. Simply add 1/2 cup to condition and soften the water.

Borax can help whiten whites, remove soapy residue from clothing and disinfect. Not only can it help boost the detergents effectiveness, it can help get rid of greasy oily stains as well, simply:

• Sprinkle Borax on the stained area then add some Dawn dish soap and gently mix into stain with an old toothbrush.
• Let sit a few minutes and wash in the warmest water the clothing item can take.

Drying and Softening the Laundry with Dryer Balls

Woolzies are 100 percent pure handmade wool dryer balls. We buy ours from Amazon and was quite happy when they lasted many, many, many months. They have exceeded our expectations and our laundry is nice and soft.

And even though they are made from wool, they don’t shed.

Cleaning and Deodorizing the Washing Machine

Cleaning and deodorizing the washing machine is something many of use don’t think of doing but it should be done occasionally, especially if you do loads of laundry. Once again, this is another use of white vinegar.

1. Set the washer to hot water and a large load. Let the machine fill with water.
2. Add 3 to 4 cups white vinegar and let it go through the agitation process.
3. Stop the washing machine and allow the vinegar to sit (at least one hour) and penetrate any grimy buildup.
4. Restart the washer and let it complete the cycle. Wipe down with a towel when empty.

These are the laundry items we use in the house of Mrs. Clean and they are all earth friendly and natural.

References

Making Your Own Homemade Laundry Detergent

How to Clean and Deodorize a Smelly Washing Machine

The post Mrs Cleans Favorite Laundry Products appeared first on House Cleaning Central.

How to Make Laundry Day Easier

What is it about laundry that makes it one of our least favorite chores? I mean, it’s fairly easy to put the clothes in the washer and then transfer those clothes to the dryer, right? We can pretty much walk off and do other things while the clothes are washing and drying but – what is it?

Is it because doing the laundry is boring and takes up too much time? Is it because of all the sorting, pre-treating, too many products to choose from, ironing and folding?

Could it be there are articles of clothing someone in the family doesn’t want to go in the dryer because their yoga outfit or favorite sweater could shrink?

What if you don’t remove them from the dryer right away or you completely forget they are in the dryer in the first place? You turn the dryer on again to fluff the wrinkles out before folding – then hopefully it doesn’t get forgotten about again?

And what if you forget they are even in the washing machine until you go to do another load of laundry? You have to rewash the forgotten load (and hope it doesn’t smell bad). I mean, who hasn’t done this a time or two?

I know with a large family; the laundry pile is enormous. It can feel like you’re swimming in a sea of dirty clothes, and with kids still in school, you want them to look their best, so it does take time. You can conquer laundry day though – just keep reading!

Gathering Dirty Laundry

If you don’t already have some kind of system in place, create one. This will turn mountains into mole hills. You will be able to organize the laundry chaos and get everyone working together to help eliminate your laundry stress.

Here’s what we do in our house. You can use this as a guide to create your own system:

• In our house, each bedroom and bathroom has a laundry basket or hamper for dirty clothes.
• In our laundry room, we have laundry hampers for jeans, whites, darks, white socks, and clothes that require washing on a gentle cycle. It might sound like all these hampers take up a bit of space, but we’ve raised the shelves in the closet so they fit nicely under them. The baskets for socks and gentles are smaller so they fit on the shelf above.
• Before laundry day, we are each responsible for bringing our dirty clothes down and sorting them into the appropriate hampers.
• If an item of clothing needs to be treated for stains, this is typically taken care of right away. If not, it is the responsibility of the wearer to bring stains to my attention so they can be treated.
• We typically stay away from dry-clean-only clothing, but they do creep in on occasion. Because we don’t have much, it’s taken out to the dry cleaner at least once a month.

So far, this system has been working great for us. Granted, it took some family members longer than other to figure out I wasn’t going to be coming around collecting their laundry, as I did when they were younger, but we’ve worked it out and it runs smoothly.

Washing Tips

1. Some new items should be washed separately the first few times because they can bleed and stain other clothing. This is especially true of red items.
2. Check the pockets of jeans and shirts.
3. Fasten Velcro to avoid lint sticking to the Velcro.
4. Read the care label for special instructions.
5. Your clothes will come out cleaner if you don’t overload the washer.
6. Keep hangers in the laundry room. For us, this is a must as a lot of our clothes are put on hangers to air dry. Maybe even consider a clothes line outside?
7. Once a month or so (depending on how many loads of laundry we’ve done), I’ll run a large hot water cycle with no clothes. I’ll add in a quart sized bottle of white vinegar to help disinfect and remove any odors.

Schedule for Washing Dirty Clothes

Washing schedules vary from home to home. What’s really best? Well, that depends on your family’s needs. For instance, the Duggar family may need to wash every day, but we only need a couple of days.

• On Saturdays we typically wash bedding, whites and gentle items.
• Tuesday, we wash towels and darks.

If we have no plans for the weekend, we may wash on Sunday instead of Tuesday but we try to break it up so we are not spending all weekend in and out of the laundry room.

Washing White Cotton Socks

We wash our cotton socks separately because we all wear them, they are soft and comfy and we want them clean not dingy looking.

Select your load size (ours is usually a large load) and fill the washing machine with hot water, about 1 cup Oxi-Clean (this depends on your load size) and your regular detergent. Add the socks and let them soak for 30 to 40 minutes, then continue with the regular wash cycle.

OxiClean brightens and whitens without the use of bleach.

Drying Clothes

This are really no-brainer tips, but I have left clothes in the dryer for days before realizing I forgot about them. I’m sure we’ve all been there done that.

1. Clean the lint trap after you take the clothes out of the dryer. A full lint trap can be a fire hazard and reduces the efficiency of the dryer.
2. Choose the correct setting for your clothes. Delicate items should be dried on Gentle or the Air Dry setting.
3. Don’t overload the dryer. Your clothes will dry faster and with less wrinkles. If you overload and forget about clothes for a day or two, some wrinkles just don’t come out unless the item is washed again.
4. Don’t just throw a clump of clothes in the dryer. Shake them out before putting them in, it can help prevent wrinkling and dry your clothes faster.
5. Remove clothes as soon as possible after the cycle is finished. This also prevents wrinkling from happening.
6. If you don’t use a liquid fabric softener in the wash cycle, add one to the dryer. If will help reduce static cling and make your clothes softer and smell fresher.
7. If you forget about clothes in the dryer for an extended period of time and have to fluff them up – over drying can damage some fibers, destroying the integrity of the item.

Folding and Ironing Clothes

No fun I know, but if you bring the clothes that need to be folded and/or ironed into the family room and pop in a movie, it goes much faster. And maybe you can get the kids to help.

The post Tips for Conquering the Laundry appeared first on House Cleaning Central.